Spider Light Column Switch Reborn!

["Livio Passera" <livio@domain.elided>]

Last week I wrote in asking for advice on how to remove a failing
light column switch on my '77 Spider.  Thanks to some tips and step
by step procedures from some fellow club members (thanks to George
Beston and Greg Stewart!)  I was able to tackle the job, clean up the
metal contacts and re-installed a fully functional switch.  What follows
is a synopsis for anyone who may be contemplating doing the same.

The dashboard lights and running lights (all exterior lights except the
headlights) had begun flickering on and off intermittently over the last
year until they finally wouldn't come on at all.  Of course if this is
happening to you first check fuse number 5 and clean up the contacts.
Heck, clean them all while you're there.  To get at the light switch
you must remove the plastic cover around the column.  This is held
together by Allen screws which you can unscrew from below, looking
up at the bottom cover.  The Allen heads are 3mm.  You will also
have to remove the steering wheel.  Before you start this, disconnect
the battery.  Flip off the centre plastic cap.  Disconnect the horn wire,
push back the metal flap on the lock nut and remove the centre nut with
a 27mm socket.  You will then need a steering wheel puller, I borrowed
one from the local Canadian Tire (like PepBoys in the U.S.) they have
a Loan-a-tool program.  The threads on the steering wheel face that accept
the bolts from the steering wheel puller are M6.  You will need a bolt
approximately 7 cm long.  Be mindful of the centering tab left behind on
the column shaft.  I don't know if it could actually pop out, but it did
adjust
as if on a spring when I pushed the steering wheel back in upon reassembly.
Once you pop the steering wheel off you will have full access to the switch.
Remove the Allen screws fixing the switch to bracket, I think they are either
4mm or 4.5mm.  Unfortunately you cannot unplug the wires at the switch
as they are permanently attached there, you will have to follow the various
wires back to their connecting points.  Yellow, Red, Green, Gray, plug
in behind the fuse box.  Black goes to a relay and Blue/Black goes to a
floating
connector.  All very straightforward, just remember where it all reconnects.

Before taking the switch off, note how the turn signal return spring is
installed.
Important for reassembly!

Now you have the switch in your hands.  These are expensive to replace and
hard to find, that's why I thought I would give opening mine up a try.  There
are 4 eyelet/rivet type fasteners that keep the two halves of the switch
together.  2 small diameter ones and 2 larger diameter ones.
Carefully pry the lip of each so that the fastener can slip out.
I didn't try to hard, but I couldn't find a tool and or fasteners to replace
these so keep the old ones as they will be used in reassembly.  Be careful
not to lose the little chrome lever click stops.  They have a little spring
behind them and are just free floating.  The click stops offer resistance
when
you switch the lever from low beam to high beam.  Once
you have the switch apart you can see that the lever has a cam-like plastic
do-hickey that when turned, presses down on metal tabs that close
the connections for the various positions of the light switch.  Although
I identified the non-working connection I took this opportunity to clean
up all the connections with some sandpaper and contact cleaner.

If you've been having problems with your turn signals not canceling
properly and not returning to the off position now is a good time to
address that problem as well.  Clean up any grease on the shaft
or the spring.  The shaft is probably smooth and shiny, thus not
providing enough surface tension to load the spring when it is clicked
on so that it can spring back when the steering wheel returns to centre.
With some sandpaper roughen up the area.  A more detailed procedure
can be found on the St. Louis AROC website:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/3837/turnsprg.html
(Other very helpful articles there as well!)

Reassemble.
If you didn't mangle the eyelet/rivet fasteners slip them back into
position.  I just used two small round head bolts/washers and nuts
for the smaller diameter fasteners.  The larger ones will be held in
place by the Allen head screws when you reinstall the switch on the
column bracket .  Reassemble everything back in reverse order
and have fun driving at night!

Of course, if you haven't installed relays for the headlights, that's
your next project.  You will find an article explaining that procedure
on St. Louis site as well.

Write to me if something I've tried to explain isn't clear.

cheers,
Livio Passera
Toronto, Canada
'77 Spider, con luci
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