Re: GTV-6 steering wheel interchangeability

[George Graves <gmgraves@domain.elided>]

on 6/17/02 2:06 PM, alfa-digest at owner-alfa-digest@domain.elided wrote:

> Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 15:40:21 -0400
> From: joe <jee@domain.elided>
> Subject: Re: GTV-6 steering wheel interchangeability
> 
> Perhaps now is the time to ask what studs I need to remove the steering
> wheel on the GTV6 (and on the Milano too, if it requires different studs).
> Last time that I borrowed a puller to try and do this, I discovered that I
> can't get metric studs anywhere, so I'm going to have to mail-order them.
> But now I forget what size to get.  Anybody know?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe


OK, I don't know what you mean by "studs" but a standard 'T'-bar
steering-wheel puller does need long bolts to thread into the tapped holes
close-in to the steering column on the steering hub boss. If this is what
you are referring to, the Alfa wheels are tapped for 6-mm bolts of
sufficient length to pass through the "T" handle of the steering-wheel
puller. Unfortunately, most GTV-6 and Milano steering-wheels are on so tight
that all you will do with the 6-mm bolts is taffy-pull them and bend them
over more the tighter you screw-in the center jack. Many Alfa experts
recommend that one remove the steering column completely and use a drift
pin, hammer, and vise to separate the wheel from the column. I have a
somewhat easier solution, which, though it is time-consuming and somewhat
involved, is nothing that cannot be done by the average do-it-yourself-er,
in less than a half an hour without resorting to taking the car apart.

First, take the horn hub and horn switch plate off. Then, using a socket and
extension, remove the single nut on the threaded end of the steering column.
You can then TRY to pull the now unsecured steering-wheel off by pulling via
the rim, but don't come to me when you wrench your back pursuing this
ultimately futile exercise! Next step. You will need a 'T' type
steering-wheel puller but forget the 6-mm bolts. They are likely NOT strong
enough to do the job and all you will end up doing is possibly lunching the
end of your steering column when the T-puller leans so far to one side that
it jumps off of the column end.

Using an electric drill motor (or an air motor if you have one) enlarge the
two tapped 6-mm holes on either side of the column using an 8-mm TAP drill.
Next, using an 8-mm tap, re-tap the two holes for 8-mm bolts. Go to the
hardware store and get a couple of 8-mm carriage bolts of sufficient length
to amply pass through the 'T' bar on your wheel-puller. While there, also
get a handful of 8-mm flat washers and a couple of 8-mm nuts of the same
thread as the bolts and the tapped steering-wheel boss. Now, put a couple of
flat washers on each bolt and thread one into one of your tapped holes.
Assemble the steering-wheel puller and screw it down until one of the ears
on the 'T' can he slid under the head of the first bolt with both washers on
top. Next, adjust the center jack screw on the steering-wheel puller
teeter-totter fashion until its more or less parallel with the
steering-wheel boss. Now run the other bolt under the other steering-wheel
puller wing and thread it into the boss plate as well. Back-off on the jack
screw enough so that you can run each 8-mm bolt down sufficiently that the
screw threads appear enough on the underside of the mounting boss to allow
you to put a flat washer over each protruding thread and then secure it
double-lock fashion (against the threaded plate) with each of the two 8-mm
nuts you bought. NOW you are ready to bull the steering wheel, Slowly
tighten the jack screw until the steering-wheel pops loose. Believe me, it
won't be on so tight as to taffy-pull those 8-mm bolts like it will the 6-mm
standard ones!

I hope this helps


George Graves 
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