Re: squeaking and nosediving

[Scott Fisher <sfisher71@domain.elided>]

--- bradley artigue <brad_artigue@domain.elided> wrote:
> Thanks for the thoughts, Scott, I should have
> provided more info and saved 
> you from all the typing!
> 
> - The brakes were bled per the shop manual, which
> doesn't necessarily read 
> "do one side first" but that's how I did it anyway
> out of convenience.

Ah.  The Alfa Owner's Manual in front of me (and the
shop manuals I've owned) clearly say to loosen the
bleed screws of the front and rear caliper on the same
side, pump several times, then end by pressing the
pedal down, tightening both bleed screws, and then
letting the pedal up.  

> - The calipers were rebuilt by me.  [...] Caliper 
> action was good, no pitting in the bore
> or on the piston.  All new seals (OE, not some 
> aftermarket stuff).  There is brake squeal 
> eliminator on the back of all pads.

Welll... sound like the MC is about the only thing
left to change! :-)

Maybe only one other question, then -- how long have
you been driving since the brake pad replacement?  I'm
still squinting in doubt over whether there could be
that much of a connection between squeaking brakes and
the pedal-feel problem you describe, except for the
part about the squeak moving from wheel to wheel.  If
you've fitted hard-compound performance brake pads,
they sometimes take a while to bed in properly -- but
it sounds as though you would have followed the
instructions on the package.  

(The pads I used to use all the time -- Repco Metal
Master, now Axxis -- always specified bedding-in with
a sequence of stops of increasing pedal pressure from
increasing speed -- starting with half-pressure from
35 mph, and getting faster and harder progressively
over the first 150 miles or so.  I used to be pretty
fussy about bedding in those pads; I'm also one of the
few people I know who likes the way they perform. 
Coincidence, or conspiracy? :-)

I can't think what else COULD be behind your problem
now except the master cylinder.  Proportioning valve,
maybe?  If for some reason there's a bubble in the
system that got into the prop valve... but that's
really stretching it.  If the fluid was as black as
you say, $90 for a rebuilt master cylinder is cheap
insurance.

Best,

--Scott Fisher
  Tualatin, Oregon
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