Re: 164 oil pan

[Richard Bies <bies@domain.elided>]

There is a FAQ on removing the oil pan.

It is probably deceptive.  Yes, it indicates the job is tedious -- indeed,
I spent the better parts of four days at it.  (And there is another,
relevant, on changing the rear motor-mount.)  FWD is a royal pain -- at
least with this sort of transverse engine (the Audi 5000 isn't so
tough..)

The pan bolts/nuts are 11mm.  All save two (next to each other) are not
too bad, provided that the two behind the main crank pulley can be dealt
with (caution using a ratcheting box-end -- make sure you can get it
out...{a whiz-bang impact wrench which would remove the main crank pulley
would make getting behind it simple....})  The FAQ indicates it would be
nice to remove the intermediate shaft/bearing carrier -- Rather.  There
is one head alongside the CV -- almost impossible, but I ground a 1/4"
drive 11mm socket thinner and snaked it in -- <then> I parted the joint
-- it would have then been easy ...but by then I had counted holes in the
new gasket -- and was short one bolt/screw -- There is one screw from the
flange, threaded into the pan, under the oil-filter/bearing carrier
bracket.  <That > one is really tough -- easier IF you can get that
contraption out (three 10mm nuts on studs into the block; one big (17mm)
nut holding the bracket to the rear mount (three machine screws, two
17mm, one 13mm, hold the mount to the sub-frame).  So far, so good (and
four days down the drain....)  The oil pick-up has to be removed to get
the pan out/off -- go to the front to do this -- two 5mm allen-head
screws hold the tube to the pump; another two 5mm allen head hold the
tube up to a main cap.  Then it doesn't take much more prying to drop the
pan.

Whew....

The retro-fit of the V6 into the GTV6 is much neater, and easier to
wrench, than this 3L V6 which the 164 supposedly was designed to
accommodate.

rmbies
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