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re: engine rebuilding questions



In AD8-0098 Bruce Giller writes: "Question 3: My pulley has a crack in the
shaft which would allow oil to seep out (no wonder it was so oily down there).
I got a used pulley and being curious, I compared the timing marks - they
don't line up.  My plan is to use my degree wheel to check the markings on the
pulley but I can't seem to find a source that tells me the degree settings:

P - TDC (easy enough to find)

F - static timing

M - Maximum RPM

I - SPICA timing

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

In the emissions-controlled era timing marks are specific to year and version-
so it is not surprising that the marks don't line up.. Spica injection timing
(I) is 70 degrees BTDC on all models, as far as I know. According to the ARI
manuals static (or idle) ignition timing (F) is one to three degrees ATDC on
the 1750, six degrees ATDC on the '72, 5+/-1 BTDC on the '78. At 5000 rpm, no
load, (M) 31/37 BTDC on the 1750, 30+/-3 for the '72, 33+/-3 for the '78. The
marks on the pulleys look about the same on spacing, but the sequence is
F-P-M-I on the '72 and P-F-M-I on the '78. California-only versions differ, of
course

 On his question #1 "Do the big end rod nuts use locktabs ?", the parts book
for the '72 do not show locktabs but do show what appears to be an elastic
stopnut (although just called "Nut, connecting rod") part # 116.08.02.205/00
which is interesting as the prefix indicates it is an Alfetta part before the
Alfetta appeared. The 1600 parts book does show locktabs 105.00.02.206.00 and
nut105.00.02.205.006, so generic shop manuals might give an anachronistic
indication. (Don't have the 1750 books at this desk, so I can't date the
change.)

 Not sure I understand the Question 2: "Aren't the big end rod nuts mounted
with the 'small' end on the rod cap?" but if it means what I think it might
mean, then no; the 'small' end of the nut would contain the nylock portion,
and the hex end, with shoulder, would seat on the rod cap.

 On Question 4: "I'd like to attach my degree wheel to the rear of the crank
so that I can easily see the front pulley and pointer.  But my degree wheel
has a center hole and there isn't a threaded center hole at the rear.  I'm I
stuck with putting the degree wheel on the front pulley?", the factory degree
wheels mount to the flywheel at the clutch attaching points, and even if the
flywheel is elsewhere it should be easy to make a transition piece from the
degree wheel to crankshaft, even with something as primitive as a piece of
cardboard and some rubber cement.

 Lastly, if somebody says otherwise on any point, pay attention to them - my
mechanical experience is limited and not as recent as many others.

 Cheers

 John

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