RE: Spider Interior Lights and Door Chime Help

["Ken Ross" <Kdross@domain.elided>]

Hal:

Thanks for the help with the interior courtesy lights.  I got them working
today, but only at the constant on position.  This fix was easy since both
switches didn't have any bulbs.  I had two extra bulbs in the glove box, but
now I am wondering if the bulbs were originally from these lights and why
they were taken out.  Perhaps the previous owner left the lights on and the
battery died.  My next job will be to clean the door jam switches since
neither door switch seems to work.  I was also able to get the glove box
light working once or twice along with the rear fog lights (both didn't work
before), but now they have stopped working again.  Hopefully the contacts
just need a good cleaning.

One thing that I did have problems with when checking the lights was with
the fuse box.  While each slot has a fuse installed in it, the amps for each
fuse do not match that of the manual.  In other words, if the manual shows
fuses # 3, 4, 5, and 6 as all having 7.5 amp fuses, I have 10 amp and 7.5
amp fuses mixed together.  Should I make sure that each fuse has the proper
fuse rating as per my manual?  Another mystery with the fuse box is that of
the relays.  The manual makes no mention of any relays, but the fuse box has
room for 5-6 relays.  My fuse box has about 2 relays installed with a fuse
in each relay, and has 3-4 blanks with no relays installed.  Any idea what
the relays are for (I have a 1990 Graduate without power windows) and why I
have blank slots?  There is a relay in my glove box, but I have no idea what
it's for.  Someone must have played with the fuse box because the black
cover that covers the relays was in the trunk.  I have since reinstalled the
cover so it properly covers the relays.   One last thing, the manual
mentions a light that is suppose to be in the fuse box.  I noticed a slot
where a bulb may pop in, but before I do, is this slot for a bulb?
Thanks again for your help.
Ken

- ----Original Message-----
From: Hal Taylor [mailto:taylor@domain.elided]
Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2000 1:02 AM
To: Ken Ross
Subject: Re: Spider Interior Lights and Door Chime Help

Ken,

No problem.  The lights have 3 wires attached (this is all from memory, so
pay
attention when you're actually doing things).  Two of these (I believe
they're
on the same end) are power (one switched from the relay; one direct) and the
other is a ground.

I would start by using either the multitester (set to read volts, and using
a
scale which will be appropriate for readings in the 13 to 14 volt range DC)
or
a test light to check voltage at the light.  Again, one of those lines
should
be permanently powered, and it should be clear which one is the ground.  So
try
the ground alternating between the two power wires, and look for ~12 V DC
across the ground and one of the other two.  If you've got it, then your
bulb
is bad or the switch on the lamp assembly is bad (most likely dirty).  If
you
don't have it, use the test instrument to go from each of the two power
leads
directly to a known ground (any unpainted metal touching the chassis, for
instance, or the ground wire of a device which is working, like the
cigarette
lighter, perhaps).  If you know your ground is good and you still don't show
power from any of the leads going to the lamp, it's likely a fuse.

If you get the lamp working from the constant power (pushed to the
appropriate
position, be it left or right), but not when the door opens (with the lamp
set
to the center position), it's time to start cleaning that door jamb switch,
which is almost definately dirty/corroded.  It should be real easy to pull
out,
and you can test the circuit by grounding the wire that attaches to is and
seeing if the lights come on.

Good luck.

Hal

Ken Ross wrote:

> Sorry to be a PITA, but how do I go about testing the lights?  I have a
good
> analog multi-meter and a 12v electrical tester.  What do I need to do?
>
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-alfa@domain.elided [mailto:owner-alfa@domain.elided]On Behalf Of Hal
> Taylor
> Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 10:46 PM
> To: Ken Ross; alfa digest
> Subject: Re: Spider Interior Lights and Door Chime Help
>
> Ken,
>
> The courtesy lights, when in the center position, depend on the door jamb
> switches.  It's either in the left or right position (don't remember
which)
> that they should be constantly on, regardless of door jamb switches or
> running
> lights.
>
> If they DON'T work in one of these positions, then
>
> 1: the switches on the back of the lights themselves are broken or dirty
> and/or
> 2: the bulbs are bad    and/or
> 3: they are not getting current (bad fuse or bad wiring)    and/or
> 4: they are not getting ground (bad wiring or bad ground connection).
>
> Do you have a multitester or at least a test lamp?  If you do not have at
> least
> a test lamp, go, post haste, to your local car parts place and pick one up
> for
> less than $10.  Then, start testing things like crazy.  If you need to
know
> exactly what to test for the courtesy lights, ask.
>
> Hal
>
> Ken Ross wrote:
>
> > Hal:
> >
> > Thanks for the info.  I tried rocking the foot well switches left, right
> and
> > center, but nothing worked.  I also tried this procedure with the
running
> > lights and headlights on.  Still no luck.  I will try cleaning the door
> jam
> > switches, but should the foot well lights work in the center position
even
> > if the door jam switches are not working?  Will this also affect the
glove
> > box light? As to the coupler in the glove box, it is for the map light
in
> > the Quad.  Someone already emailed me regarding this.   Thanks again for
> > your help.
> >
> > Ken
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Hal Taylor [mailto:taylor@domain.elided]
> > Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 10:23 PM
> > To: Ken Ross; alfa digest
> > Subject: Re: Spider Interior Lights and Door Chime Help
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > The courtesy lights in the foot wells are operated by switches in the
door
> > jambs.  Look around the door hinges and you should see some little posts
> > sticking out, which will readily press in if you push them with your
> finger.
> > The back of these little posts are a simple switch that grounds the a
> > circuit
> > and turns on the courtesy lights.  THese switches routinely get dirty
and
> > corroded.  Try some electrical contact cleaner or WD 40  to clean them
up,
> > and
> > it'll likely solve your problem.  Same goes for the door chime (which is
> > more
> > like a "door buzz" on my '86; don't know how yours should sound).
> >
> > Note also that the courtesy lights are switches themselves.  They should
> > rock
> > left to right.  THe center position is automatic, on a timed relay
> triggered
> > by
> > the door switches.  If I remember correctly, left is always on, and
right
> is
> > always off (but it might be vice versa).
> >
> > The coupler in your glove box was most likely for a map light option.  I
> > don't
> > remember if the courtesy light in there works unless the running lights
> are
> > on.
> >
> > Hal
> >
> > Ken Ross wrote:
> >
> > > My "new" 1990 Spider doesn't seem to have any working interior
courtesy
> > > lights and the door chime doesn't work (manual says the car has a door
> > > chime).  The three courtesy lights that don't work are the two lights
> > under
> > > the dash for the driver and passenger, and the light in the glove box.
> I
> > > checked the fuses and the bulbs and everything seems ok.  Does anyone
> have
> > > any ideas as to what could be wrong?  I checked one ground in the
engine
> > > compartment, but I really do not know what to look for and where the
> other
> > > grounds are located.  In case it matters, the courtesy light in the
> engine
> > > compartment and trunk do work.  My rear fog lights also stopped
working
> > > yesterday, so perhaps this problem is somehow related.
> > >
> > > Another interesting thing I found was an electrical coupler in the
glove
> > box
> > > which wasn't plugged into anything (it runs behind the glove box but
was
> > > sticking in the glove box compartment and the two wires that ran out
of
> > the
> > > coupler were red and black). Perhaps this is for a power antenna
option?
> > If
> > > not, any suggestions would be appreciated since I have no idea where
to
> > > start.  TIA.
> > >
> > > Ken Ross

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