Update on broken easy out

[KGRPKelly@domain.elided]

Thanks to everyone who responded with ideas on removing broken screws and 
easy outs.

Just to clear up any confusion, I had sheared off the screws/bolts that hold 
the rear suspension/axle limiting straps onto the "frame"/wheel well of a 105 
series GTV.  (I know, it is a unibody.)  I also did not explain that before I 
torqued off the screws with vise grips, I had soaked them for a day with 
penetrating oil and heated the nut to red hot before trying to remove the 
screws.

They sheared off flush with the bracket, so there was no stub to grip.  Also, 
this is a steel bracket and not an aluminum case of any kind.  If the "screw" 
(actually a bolt with a countersunk phillips head) would not come out with 
vise grips or an easy out, a new slot and a screwdriver would be ineffective.

There is not a lot of room to work, BTW.  You have to loosen and lower the 
rear axle to get enough clearance to work upside down.


We have Electrostatic Discharge Machines (EDM) at work, and you have to have 
the tap/easy out immersed in EDM fluid to run the machine and burn through 
the problem.  I broke off a tap in a crankshaft once while threading the oil 
holes to replace the aluminum plug with a hex screw.  I did have that tap 
EDMed out and that is a very good application for EDM.  You cannot EDM these 
screws working upside down in the wheel well. 

Rich Hirsch's offer of advise on fasteners through his newsletter archives is 
very good information for everyone.  
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/3837/thrdfast.html

Russ Neely suggested striking the easy out with a punch and try to shatter 
it.  I heated the forward blind barrel nut red hot and started to wail away 
at the easy out.  I then noticed the nut was lifting off the bracket and 
coming loose.  I started hitting the top of the nut from the gap in the front 
and broke the nut off.  The rear nut was not as easy, it is more inaccessible 
and this one was welded on much better.  After beating the tar out of the 
nut, it came loose while only taking a little of the bracket with it.  

I then cut a flat piece of metal to fit on top if the bracket, drilled holes 
for the bolts and a friend welded some nuts on top of the strap.  This 
replicates the captured nuts in a confined space.  I did have to retap the 
nuts due to their changing size a little bit because of the heat when they 
were welded.  

This now fits perfectly, covers the mangled, odd shaped holes and with the 
new stainless steel bolts, everything goes together like new. 

People say that part of the reason the bolts rust so badly is that they pass 
through an aluminum spacer that helps hold the straps to the body.
Someone (I don't remember who) said that they replaced these blocks with 
locally made nylon blocks when they reassembled their straps.  I think that 
is a good idea, and I will do the same if I can find blocks of nylon, Delron 
or something like it.

Thanks again to all that offered help and suggestions.

I know this is long, but it is all Alfa mechanical content and I hope someone 
else can learn from my mistakes.  Besides, I thought one of the main reasons 
for the Digest was to help each other take care of our cars.

Give peace a chance.

Keith (I'm just here to learn tips on fixing my cars) Kelly
Tulsa, OK
Cocoa Beach, Fla

------------------------------