Re: GTV brakes

[Scott Fisher <sefisher@domain.elided>]

Jorge -- sounds like you got a very nice '74 GTV!  Here's what I've
learned so far about the brakes on my '74 Spider, so most of it should
apply directly to your '74:

Flushing the fluid is something I do on *every* new-to-me old car I
buy.  It takes a while, but in addition to the peace of mind it gives,
it's also a useful diagnostic.  If bleeding the brakes and replacing the
fluid with new LMA doesn't solve all the pedal problems, it can point to
other things that need replacing, and it's inexpensive.  I also looked
up recommended intervals in my '74 owner's manual recently, and "the
book" says to flush the fluid yearly or every 12,000 miles.

Some amount of squishy pedal can be due to fluid contamination (in
particular air bubbles in the system); that's exactly the experience I
had last June.  My recommendation: run a clean can of Castrol GT LMA
through the system.  Just keep pumping till it comes out as clean as it
goes in.  I covered the braking system flush some months ago when I
finished it on my car, but the short answer: the '74 dual-circuit system
needs to have one side (front and rear) drained at the same time, then
the other side (front and rear).  In spite of expert testimony to the
contrary, I still recommend the two-person pump-open-close-release
drill, as I know it works and I'm very fussy about brakes.  I found a
few small bubbles in my system when I flushed it, with Digester Alan
Lambert's leg providing the force on the pedal; the net result after a
little work in the hot sun was a *much* firmer pedal feel, and much
improved fade resistance as well. 

Another cause of squishy pedal I've found: when I've bought cars with
pads worn down to the backing plates, I've often noticed that the
calipers are frozen, usually at the extreme end of travel -- meaning the
pistons won't retract when I try to push them back so I can install the
new pads.  On my GT Junior, I was unable to free up a sticky piston on
the car, so I ended up rebuilding both front calipers, cleaning up the
cylinder bores and replacing all four piston seals.  Simply doing that,
and replacing the fluid and the pads at the same time, made a staggering
difference in pedal feel as well as in braking operation -- pressing on
the pedal feels like standing on a block of wood on the floor, and the
car stops as if you'd driven into a sand pit.  So don't overlook the
condition of the remote hydraulics and their effect on pedal feel.

Other experiences with brakes: I'm a fan of the Repco (now Axxis)
MetalMaster semi-metallic pads, which are mildly controversial.  Some
people don't like them, because the first braking application on a cold
morning can require a longer stopping distance till things warm up.  I'm
willing to accept that tradeoff in return for the shorter stopping
distances I'll get all the rest of the day, particularly on drives up
(and more importantly, down) the mountains near home.  Translation:
MetalMasters fade less than the stock Ferodo pads in hard use.  I've
done back-to-back testing on my '67 GTV and I prefer the way the Repcos
hook up when warm.  At the same time, if you're looking for track use,
there are better compounds, but for a street pad for spirited driving,
my feet are used to the Repcos.

Rotors: I haven't yet had to replace rotors on either of my Alfas.  I've
recently seen the whizzy cross-drilled, ventilated rotors (cad plated
too, whoo-hoo) and have generally heard that they don't do a lot to
improve the braking except give the dust a place to go other than your
wheels.  I'd be interested in hearing documented test results that
confirm or deny this; they do *look* cool.  If there is an *internally*
vented disc available, I'd like to hear, as that appears to be genuinely
useful cooling technology.  

In the main, though, just getting your brakes functioning properly will
give you stopping power that will amaze you.  And here's hoping you
don't amaze the driver behind you as much as I did one night in my GT
Junior... ouch. :-(

- --Scott Fisher
  Sunnyvale, CA

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