Re: Replacing front wheel studs on 105/115?

[Simon Favre <simon@domain.elided>]

The problem with the larger hammer approach isn't damage to the hub. You
would also have to miss really badly to impact the rotor. ;=) The problem
with trying to pound them out is that if they are in there real tight,
they might mushroom under the impact of the hammer blows. It's about 10
minutes worth of easy work for somebody with a hydraulic press. Just pull
the thing off the night before and take it to a shop bright and early the
next morning. Ask nicely, and they'll do the press work while you wait.
You could easily have it back on and be running by noon.

Here's how I know the studs can be a b*tch. One weekend at the racetrack,
Marnix Dillenius in the infamous # 7 Alfa TZ broke a stud. He asked around
the paddock for help. I brought the "larger hammer", and Tom Sahines had a
Makita drill. We ended up having to drill all the way thru the stud with
a 1/8" drill to get it out with the rock-drilling sledge. It was not fun.
Actually, since the stud had snapped off, we only had to drill about 1/2
the original length. Mind you, some are relatively loose and will move if
you just threaten them with the hammer. ;=)

Kevin Trent wrote:

>I recently upgraded the rear axle on my '71 berlina to a late model LSD
>unit.  I have also purchased new studs so that all 4 wheels will have studs
>that are the conventional right-hand (clockwise to tighten) threads.   My
>question: What is the proper method to remove and replace the left hand
>threads remaining on the driver's side front hub?    Can I bash them out of
>the front rotor with my good old Thor brass sledge hammer, or do they need
>to be pressed out with a hydraulic ram?  I don't want to damage my rotor,
>but I having them pressed out makes this a multi-day repair with an
>outsource for the stud R&R.    Suggestions?  Thanks.

------------------------------

End of alfa-digest V7 #1081
***************************