Re: Compression ratio; rusty cams

[Simon Favre <simon@domain.elided>]

Ben,

Don't EVER swap cam caps over from one motor to the next. The old ones
should be salvageable. Perhaps it's only the steel studs that are rusty.
The Aluminum (Aluminium?) should be OK. It may also be possible to
salvage the cams, but if you have a cam grinder "kiss" them with the
grinder, you should fit new followers. Cams are available, tho.

I'm not sure about the 105 1300 motors, but the 101 and 750 motors used
hardware that was mostly different from the 105 series. Check the valve
stem diameter. Early motors were 8mm, later ones were 9. I wouldn't fit
old springs out of a pile without running them all thru a valve spring
checker.

Have all the rusty stuff bead blasted and see what it looks like. Be
gentle on the cam cap inside surfaces.

Ben Dixon wrote:

>biggest bummer of all is that when I got the spare motor, about 2 years ago,
>I dissassembled it and had the machine work all done, but then moved house,
>so the project was never finished.  in the meantime, all the parts were
>carefully wrapped in oiled cloth and stored.  sometime in the last two years
>though, water has got in and a lot of the parts - in particular the cams and
>cam bearings (caps) and associated hardware - have rusted beyond use.  a
>real bummer - the cams were 105-45 euro spec cams.  so, I will have to find
>replacements.  
>
>I have another spare motor, a 1300, and wondered if the valve train parts
>(cams, buckets, springs, etc) were the same.  anyone know?  Also, would it
>be ok to use the cam bearings (they look more like bearing caps, but there
>is no separate bearing) from another motor?  or would I then have to get the
>whole lot align-bored?

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