Re: taking the nose off of a 115 GTV

[JHertzman@domain.elided]

In AD7-744 Richard Welty asks for advice on good places to cut when salvaging 
a nose from a 115 GT Veloce parts car for use in restoring another car.

Unless I had the two cars side by side and would be doing the work 
concurrently and consecutively, I would cut behind the firewall and 
doorposts, and high on the windshield posts, AND I would make sure I had two 
pieces of printed literature (or photocopies of the relevant parts thereof).

Publication 1570, Body Shop Manual for Giulia and 1750 models, applies 
equally to 115 2000 models. It uses a Giulia Saloon in the photos, but says 
"The same procedure applies to all models in this range". After seven pages 
on replacing the front crossmember, it spends six pages on the fenders and 
front panels, removing the fender, removing the skirt (the sidewall of the 
engine bay) and the skirt inner panel (which, with the skirt, forms the box 
section front frame) if they are damaged, and replacing everything forward of 
the firewall.

The second piece of literature would be the pages of the parts book covering 
the front-end sheet metal. Part #105.44.50.001.01 is the firewall and all of 
the structure forward of the firewall, pre-assembled; the same pages have the 
separate parts, firewall, inner and outer skirts, crossmember, front 
bulkhead, etc.; and a bit farther on there is an assembly of the entire 
exterior sheet-metal, with a breakdown of the several parts which make it up.

Between the Body Shop Manual and the Parts Book one should be able to get a 
fairly good idea of the parts, the way they were put together, the way they 
come apart, and the ways they go back together. For Richard's case, a lot 
depends on what deterioration is present in the car being restored; a likely 
scenario would be parting everything forward of the firewall on the project 
car, and then carefully removing the firewall from the front clip of the 
parts car.

In a proper shop all of this would be done on the body alignment bench 
(A.8.0901 in your Special Tools Catalog) but if that is not available I would 
suggest tack-welding (or bolting) an armature of light steel tubing inside 
the front clip so that every opening was fully triangulated during the 
disassembly and reassembly process.

In Richard's case if he does not have the BSM and the Parts Book I can copy 
the pertinent pages for him, but the entire Body Shop Manual is useful to 
have, as it covers many other things- aligning doors, shimming hoods, 
adjusting latches, removing and replacing glass, hanging headliners, where to 
seal panel joints, etcetera. It may be present and usable on a CarDisk- don't 
know, don't have any- but members of AROC can get photocopies of the whole 
manual from the Club's Technical Librarian. (One of the several things that 
AROC membership is good for.)

John H.
Raleigh, N.C.

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