re: 164 leaky rack replacement

[KARL C CHEN <karlcchen@domain.elided>]

Thank you Doug,

It is leaking really fast when internal pressure is very high
( turned lock to lock ).  I was assuming that rack is leaking
and I already used various kind of stop leak of no avail.
I will check hose connectors. 

If connectors are fine, I will call for a quote from mechanic.
I think this is harder than timing belt ordeal which I had 
gone thru. 

Sound like you have done this before, but you said yours is 
fine after 200,000KM ?  

Thanks,
Karl

>>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:58:57 +1000
From: "Doug Gould" <dgould@domain.elided>
Subject: 164 rack

Karl

Removing the steering rack is a pain and you may want to consider the
cheque
book mechanic. However, here are my tips:

The front two bolts can be removed from the top, but you need a 3 foot
socket extension. You should find that there is just enough room to slide
it
down in front of the firewall and get to the bolts. You may also need a
universal joint on the socket (can't remember).

The job is a lot easier if you can get a hoist. Otherwise get the car as
high as you can.

The rear two bolts are a problem and you will end up loosening them 1/16
of
a turn at a time with an open ender. Getting to these will be easier if
you
drop the rear of the subframe, which will give maybe another inch of
clearance.

The rack carriers are a tight fit to the subframe with spigots that fit
into
the subframe. You will probably need a lever to get it out and
potentially
to get it back in again. When you come to replace it you will also need
to
undo the steering on the inside to make alignment easier.

You should replace the rack bushes while you do this.

Are you sure that you really need to replace it? Mine is still fine after
200,000km. Leaks are often due to leaks at the hose connections and power
steering conditioner helps smooth it all out.


Good luck

Doug Gould
91 164L
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