RE: Re: Wheel bearing free play? (longish)

[Chris <chris@domain.elided>]

On the subject of bearing play,

Chris Prael wrote:

> I popped the wheel off, opened the hub up and
> retorqued the spindel nut.  Closed it up, put the wheel back on, and
> everything felt solid.
> 
That's the basic procedure . . . (be sure to renew the split pin though,
remember Murphy's law on computing? "A $300 CRT will protect a 10cts 
fuse by blowing first") (CRT=Cathode Ray Tube = your monitor.)

> A month, or so later, I had some work done on the car. While it was on the
> lift, I checked the wheel and the play was back.  They went through the
> retorquing drill and all seemed well again

If this occurs, the new bearings weren't assembled properly.
I'll describe The way I renew my wheel bearings below.

(you are now about to learn some "dutch english" :]
The bearing consists of three parts:
An outer circular thing, which I'll call, "outer race",
the rollers themself, which I'll call, "the bearing"
and the the inner circular thing, which I'll call "inner race"
(feel free to send me an english dictionary on mechanical lingo! :])

The new races are (gently) put in place with a suitable tool.
When the hub is assembled, the axle nut is torqued to 30Nm.
Turn the wheel, and retorque (25Nm). Turn, torque to 25Nm . . .
Repeat until you hear the bearing "roll".
(That's the sign the "races" have set properly)
Now loosen the nut at least 3 turns, turn wheel, and torque to
20 Nm, find the nearest hole for the split pin (either clock or
anti clockwise) and insert split pin. recheck play by wiggling
wheel.
This is the official way, if you don't have a torque wrench, just
keep tightening the nut AND turning the wheel until your hear the
bearing
"grind", then follow as above.

On the subject of reusing split pins, don't risk it, they only cost a
few
cents and you can get them (almost) everywhere.

> I took the car into a different mechanic some months later for some engine
> work (which came out right!  the other guy had been through a number of
> tries without improving the situation).  They found the play an disassembled
> the assembly.  They found that the race of the inner bearing had spun in teh
> hub, damaging both.

That's my story above, the other mech. didn't set the "races" right.

> > My number one question, is it safe to drive?
> 
> I got away with a couple thousand miles of driving after the problem showed
> up.  Once I found out what the real problem was, I concluded that I was very
> fortunate that the components on the GTV6 are so tough!  This kind of
> problem is what causes the wheel to fall off the spindel when one is
> entering a turn fast.
> 
> You can drive it there, gently, but get it fixed, now!

A loose bearing doesn't cause your wheel to fall off, it usually locks
up!
Rendering you with a wheel that stops when you don't want to.
(great for doing 180's (without hand brake) though!)

> 
> chrisp
> 

HEY! that MY name! :))

 Chris Piepers
 The Netherlands
 
 '81 Alfasud Sprint Veloce (for nostalgic reasons)
 '83 Alfetta Q'Oro (daily driver, since the Milano is waiting for it's
 new heart)
 '86 75 2.5V6 (Milano)
 (I just LOVE those transaxles)

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