RE: SPIDER BOOSTER

["dms" <dms@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

(to all alfisti: sorry about the length of this message, but seeing
the requests i've generated already for this info, i think that
the majority of you might be interested.)

general info:  spider's tend to blow their brake boosters when
the brake master cylinder goes bad.  it'll leak fluid INTO the
booster & may not be apparent, as the booster can hold as much
as a quart of fluid. (that's how much came out of mine! damn dpo!)

anyway, if you have to refresh your spider's brake fluid often, check & find
the leak! don't mess around with waiting to replace the brake mc, as you'll
just ruin your brake booster.  new mc is about $100 us, new booster is $320
us.

i'm certain this applies to other alfa's as well, but not sure, as i just
own a spider ;)

MIKE:

i'm experencing the same problems, replacing the booster in my 86 spider.
the brief info i've discovered is that you'll have to replace or rebuild
your
booster. how do you rebuild it? i don't know. where do you get a kit?
don't know that either. but there is a place that'll rebuild it for you:

Subject: Alpha Booster
   Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:17:59 EST
   From: PWRENCH@domain.elided

We don't have a booster in stock for your Alpha,sorry.What we can do is
rebuild your booster. We have a full line of new parts available to
remanufacter your booster to factory specs.All our rebuilds come with a
12 mo. 12,000 mile warranty. The price is $149.95 + Tax and shipping.
please feel free to use our Toll Free # 1-877-Brake.
  Our address is
  Power Brake Service
  199 NE 32 ct
  Oakland PK. FL.
    33334
Most orders are rebuilt and shipped in 48 hrs.
  Looking forward to your order
  Pete Gray

here's some instructions that MAY help your job. might not either...

============================================================================
===
     Replacing the Alfa Clutch Pedal Shaft
     Len Leeb, Santa Rosa, CA USA    Len_Leeb@domain.elided

     The clutch pedal/brake pedal pivot shaft may be replaced with the
     pedal cluster in the car, and without opening the hydraulic lines.
     This is contrary to what the manual suggests, but it works!

     Step 1. Pull the cotter pin from the pin that holds the clutch lever
     arm to the master cylinder input shaft. Remove the pin and washer, and
     the arm, if the weld has broken, will come off. It will help to
     disconnect the battery as the brake lite will come on when the pedal
     is moved. It may help to tape down the brake lite switch to keep it
     out of the way of the pedal.

     2. Remove the bolt and nut that holds the brake vacuum servo to the
     bodywork. It's on the inside of the left fender well. Now remove the
     two nuts and washers securing the pedal cluster housing to the
     firewall.

     3. From inside the car, remove the two nuts and washers (13 mm socket)
     securing the bottom of the pedal cluster housing.

     4. Now, working under the hood, rock the master cylinder to loosen the
     housing from the firewall. There is a sticky gasket between the
     firewall and the casting. Once this is free, pull up on the casting to
     get it free of the mounting studs that held it to the firewall. Be
     careful not to pull too far back, since the brake and clutch lines are
     still attached.

     5. Pull the cluster housing up until the pin securing the clutch pedal
     to the shaft is visible. Remove the nut part way, until the top of the
     nut and the end of the pin are flush. Tap on the end of the pin until
     it drops down; it will still be held in place by the nut. Reach into
     the housing, and support the pin with one hand, while removing the nut
     and washer with the other. Pull the pin out.

     6. Wiggle the clutch shaft out of the housing; it may help to use
     pliers or vise-grips on the end of the shaft. The clutch pedal will
     drop to the floor, the brake pedal will stay in place.

     7. Installation of the new (or rewelded) shaft is a reverse of the
     above. First, grease the shaft with a thin film of chassis lube. The
     clutch pedal must be held in place until the shaft is thru it, the
     brake pedal will have to be wiggled back and forth to get it into
     place. Use a flexible shaft pick up tool to insert the pin in the
     clutch pedal, thru the shaft. A little tricky, until the exact angle
     is achieved. The shaft must be rotated until the flat lines up with
     the hole in the pedal pivot.

     8. If rewelding the shaft, be sure to correctly mark its location with
     respect to the lever arm before removing the shaft. Once out of the
     car, it is difficult to get the proper angle. Also, be sure to set the
     clutch master cylinder input shaft to the correct dimension. The book
     says 5.28" (134 mm) from the end of the cylinder to the end of the
     connecting pin hole, (nearest the fire wall). Do not measure to the
     center of the hole!
     Note: prop the clutch pedal up to the correct height to be able to
     mark the lever arm location with respect to the shaft. Make sure the
     mark does not move between removing the shaft and welding it. (Ask me
     how I know!)

     This procedure eliminates the need to bleed the hydraulic system,
     since it is never opened up. There is enough play in the hydraulic
     lines to be able to move the assembly a few inches. The whole
     procedure should take no more than an hour for removal, and a like
     amount to reinstall.

     A few Band-Aids for skinned knuckles might help, and some proper
     Italian automotive words are occasionally in order. I had to use
     English ones, remembered from my days of owning/working on British
     sports cars. Maybe my Alfa was overawed by my command of English
     colloquialisms!

     The hardest part is to be able to reinsert the clutch pedal to shaft
     pin. If it drops, it may fall below the car, into the car, or between
     the firewall and the carpet. In other words, don't drop it unless you
     have a spare. The hood release cable constantly gets in the way, I
     think if I were to repeat this job, I'd recommend disconnecting it.
     Don't drop the hood before before it's reconnected! When raising the
     housing from the firewall, the pedals will tend to find their own way
     up into the under-dash area, binding occasionally on the bodywork
     sheetmetal. (You'll never see the scratches.)

     While I worked alone, it would help to have a second person in the
     car, moving the pedals for you when you insert the pedal shaft.
     Tools needed: 13 mm socket with 1/4 or 3/8 drive ratchet,
     11 mm socket,
     hammer
     vise-grip pliers (to remove shaft),
     small adjustable open end wrench
     grease, rag.



>Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:33:36 -0600
>From: "Miller, Michael C" <michael.c.miller@domain.elided>
>Subject: Spider brake booster troubles?
>
>If a spider ('79) brake booster is not holding pressure, can it be fixed?
>Or is it terminal and needs to be replaced?
>
>Symptoms include stiff pedal feel, pulsing through the pedal, and a hissing
>sound when brakes are applied.  I replaced the intake manifold check valve
>and hose to the booster already.

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