Re: ihc-digest V6 #758

[Matt Palguta <mpalguta@domain.elided>]

Joe,

    I dug out the part numbers that I used for the carb rebuild. The components I
bought were Borg Warner; Carb kit # 10634C and replacement floats # CF252B. I
recall that the kit was around $30 and the floats were $6 each. The BW "book"
lists the float as a single but there are definitely two of them. The part number
for the float is for the brass replacement. The originals in the carb are a
thermoplastic that works but over time absorbs fuel and deposits and looses
bouyancy. I don't know the plastic float # as the brass ones were recomended.
Check all of the other possibilities first, but the rebuild isn't brain surgery.
Get lots of carb cleaner (Berkebile 2+2) sorry it's a local company had to plug
them besides Dan's right it does work better than any of the other generics, just
don't ask what's in it. Clean everything and use the IH manual as well as the
diagram that comes in the kit. Don't expect to see detailed rebuild procedures in
the box, it's a large very detailed set of diagrams. The process is in the maint
manual couple that with the much better pics on the diagrams and you've got a good
lead and lots of info.


> Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:42:50 -0400
> From: "scoutnad" <scoutnad@domain.elided>
> Subject: Carbs & the such
>
> Binders,
>
> Since returning from Charlotte last weekend, I've had a very rough running
> truck, something like this.  Very difficult to start, in that the engine
> will turn over, hit about 1200 rpm, and then quickly taper off & stall out.
> After going through this routine a few times, I'll push the gas down a bit,
> start it and get it up to 1800 rpm or so, hold it for about 60 seconds, and
> then let off.  Idle then holds at about 900 rpm, the engine shakes, and the
> exhaust is really foul smelling.  To engage first gear with this cold engine
> requires high rpm, maybe 1500 or so, or else it'll stall out.  When I shift
> up through the gears, the power drops way off as soon as I hit the next gear
> and the rpms drop, but the power returns all at once after the rpms come
> back up.
>
> Once warmed up, idle is rough at 1300 rpm or so, but I sense no power loss,
> even just after shifting.  When I shut the engine off, it diesels worse than
> any other gas engine I've ever heard - about 15 seconds or so if I don't let
> the clutch out to stop it.  (By the way, this is a 345 with a Thermoquad.)
>
> I'm thinking that the carb is on its way out, so I called the parts store to
> ask about what numbers I'd have to read off the carb to order a rebuild kit.
> After getting a list of about a dozen numbers, I looked under the hood and
> found a "9218S" stamped in the lower corner, nearest the driver's seat.
> "9218" was one of the numbers given to me by the parts store.  (Matt P - any
> thoughts?)
>
> Before I go through a carb rebuild, can anyone shed any light on whether
> this is likely to be my problem.  (I know many of you, and you know who you
> are, will say something like "replace the thermobog."  Realistically, I've
> never had any real problems (other than a bum choke) either on-road or off,
> so I'm not planning to replace it.)
>
> Any input will be appreciated.
>
> Joe Costanzo
> '79 Scout II
>