Re: Spring over questions.

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

josad@domain.elided wrote:
> along w/ buying a twisted axle and swaping in the parts (instead of

Make sure you get things mocked up and then determine the angle you need
the spring perches for the front CV and then determine how much you need
the knuckles twisted before you pay to have it twisted.. no such thing
as a "pre-twisted perfect-for-your-rig" axle housing..

> backcountry of WY, so can someone please tell me what a) parts i'll need
> before I start b) any special tools needed c)measurements of modified
> steering parts

Before you start?  Just the steel for what needs fabbed.. and maybe new
U-bolts - definitely new Nylock nuts.

After you get it done, measure for shocks and driveshafts and order 'em
along with CV yokes for the Dana 20 (find out the spline count on the
yokes)

Measure how much angle for the CV and how much knuckle rotation.. only
way to get that is to bolt in the stock springs, put the axle under, and
set the weight down on it and do the mock-up.. then send the housing
away.

Steering - a few choices.

1) not-so-custom Z-drag link (see Gryphin Racing)
or go route #2 - trick custom.

Get a pair of IH pickup/T'all Dana 44 front axle (open) knuckles.  Flat
topped.  Send the passenger knuckle away for machining (TriCounty
charges ~ $55).  Then get two custom steering arms (one to replace the
"horshoe" on the driver's side) and install.  Then a custom tie-rod to
connect the two together.. ABOVE the springs.. then a custom drag link
that attaches to the tie-rod.

cheap route is to just get the passenger knuckle modified and buy just
ONE steering arm ($125 per arm) and leave the tie-rod as-is and put the
drag link on top of the knuckle / over the springs.

If you already have a heavy duty drag link, I think converting the
knuckles is actually pretty cost effective if you only want to raise the
drag link up (less bump steer).

Running me $200 to convert my passenger side Chevy knuckle and keep the
stock tie-rod.  To convert to IH knuckles, you might need to swap the
driver's side to match the tie-rod heights and angles.. so there's the
cost of the knuckles for BOTH sides.

> also, I belive I read that a RS gives a slight lift (unless engineered
> not to), how much?  I want to be able to weld up some shckles for my rear
> to even it out

If you get a little lift in the rear.. add a leaf, or add a block, or
use custom shackles.. but you can wait 'till it's all done before you
need to worry about that.

-Tom Mandera, Helena MT
http://www.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout