Re: Flat towing a Scout

[Tom Mandera <tsm1@domain.elided>]

Curt Cleavinger wrote:

> to tow the Scout behind the Travelall. Since I don't have anyplace to
> keep a trailer, that leaves flat-towing. Some of the tow bars I've
> seen look pretty whimpy - anyone know of a good heavy-duty towbar
> that's not too expensive? I'll be mounting it to a Warn winch bumper.
> I've seen towbars that have a rigid 'A' shape, and I've seen some
> that seem to be hinged - is there a reason to prefer one over the other?

Curt,

I now have some experience with towbars under my belt.. flat towing
three Scout IIs home behind my lifted '77 SII via tow-bar.  The first
was a '75 SII 100 miles, complete.  Second was a Traveler - mostly a tub
but with two motors in the back, 600 miles.  The most recent was a
complete 72 SII about 3 miles (from the junkyard home)

The first time I couldn't break 45mph.  I got better with the Traveler..
after rearranging the load and rearranging my driving style (John Landry
mentioned propping his arm against his arm rest to fight the slop in the
steering system), I could do 65mph with ease... and faster.

My tow bar is an "A" style that is adjustable.  It's adjustable to fit a
variety of attachment point widths.  It came with some bolt on
brackets.  Drill two 1/2" holes and bolt the brackets to the bumper. 
The adjustable part comes into play when mounting on different vehicles.

My 'bar is rated to 5,000lbs.  Of course, my stock step bumper is rated
to 2k.  I don't know what would need to happen to make the tow bar a
"6K" bar.. or if they even offer such items.

I now have a "bumperette" made of two pieces of 3x2x1/4" angle welded to
together to make a "C" that's 5" high with a 3" lip on top, and a 2" lip
on the bottom.  To the face of this C, I welded four pieces of 3x3x3/8"
angle.  Setup to make two brackets, one on either side, to attach the
towbar to.  For extra safety I drilled and bolted the brackets as well
as welded. ;-)

http://walnut.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/traveler/pics.htm

There's some pictures of the towbar and the Traveler in there.. not all
that useful I guess..

I've had good success with the flat tow.. castor on the tower and the
towee would probably help.  

I also own a set of magnetic lights that I can just slap on the towed
rig.

When I get my racer re-wired with functional lights n' such, I'm going
to wire a connector such that I can plug directly into my tow rig and
use the towed vehicles light system (perhaps operating a relay that
would work the stock lights).  Still have the magnetics for towing home
new trucks.. but if I plan on towing the rig, might as well set it up
for lights.

Tom Harais could probably clue you in on some trailer brakes for the
towed truck.. still an interesting idea.. I wonder if I could run a line
from my on-board air.. make it operated by a solenoid off of a trailer
brake setup, and supply air to a pneumatic ram that I could attach to
the brake pedal and the rollcage...

Just because I don't want to shell out $400 for a brake system for a
flat towed truck, when I could build/buy a flatbed car hauler for a bit
more... (my friend paid $800 for his flatbed.. and I *do* have a use for
a flatbed..)

-Tom