Installing Rotor to Hub?

[jlandry@domain.elided (John A. Landry)]

Reapers,

I guess it was my turn to have a weekend with maintenance problems.  Over the
last couple of weeks I *thought* I was feeling a strange vibration in my
Traveler, but I wasn't sure.  I would feel it in the floorboard especially at
highway speeds.  I kept telling myself I was imaging it, until this holiday
weekend it got bad enough where I was sure it was something wrong.  At first I
suspected the driveshaft, u-joints, or rear axle, but after checking them this
morning I couldn't find anything wrong.  After another short drive this
afternoon, I got a feeling the problem might be with the front wheel bearings.
So I lifted the front end and shook the tires.  As soon as I felt the driver's
side wheel, it was quite apparent that I'd found the problem.  The tire could
be moved maybe 1/4" in and out.

I did a little exploratory surgery and discovered the outer wheel bearing has
frozen up to the point the race spun in the hub.  To make a long story short,
the hub is ruined!  The race dug a nice 1/32" deep groove inside the hub body.

So now my only choice is to replace the hub.  Luckily I have a couple of
spares on my parts Traveler I think are serviceable (I hope).  The parts
Traveler has been sitting a long time and the rotor is very rusty, so I don't
think it could be used unless it were turned first.  I'm not sure if enough
thickness is left on those old rusty rotors to have them turned.  However, the
rotor on the hub that just got ruined was turned within the last two years,
and it looks great.

I'm wondering if it would be an acceptable practice to simply swap hubs but
keep the same rotor?  I have access to a huge hydraulic press where I work and
can do the work myself.  But I've never installed a rotor before and was
wondering if there are any tips or tricks I should be aware of.  For one
thing, it certainly appears the rotor is held on to the Scout hub by nothing
more than the pressed in threaded wheel studs.  I have a hard time believe
pressing in studs is all that hold the rotor to the hub, but I guess this is
how they did it.  So do I just press out the studs, swap the rotors and press
the studs back in?  Can I get by with simply doing the swap and not bother
with having to turn the rotor again?  I'd like to avoid removing any more
metal from the rotor if I can help it... I think I'm at the minimum thickness
limit.

John H. and I talked about this situation on the telephone, and he recalls
installing *new* rotors and not having to turn them afterwards.  Is that a
common and accepted practice?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Happy holidays,

John L.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
jlandry AT halcyon DOT com       |
Conservative Libertarian         |   1976 Red / White / Blue (and rust)
Life Member of the NRA           |  "Bicentennial" IHC Scout II Traveler
WA Arms Collectors               |
Commercial Helicopter - Inst.    | IH Scout - Don't be fooled by the rust!
http://www.halcyon.com/jlandry/  |  It's a disguse to keep yuppies away.