Brake Bleeding and Jam Nuts

[GuruXXXIX@domain.elided]

Hi All,
I know that brake bleeding has been done to death. but I'd like to add my two
cents worth too.  In an old Corvair manuel I saw a GM 'J' tool ( 'J' tool is a
custon GM tool for a specific job)  for pressurizing the brake system .  I
fashioned one that would fit all my needs since I have to do most of my
automotive chores alone also. (like a few others here)  I cut a piece of 1/2
inch CRS(cold rolled steel) to 3" by 5", drilled and tapped in the center for
a 1/4NPT thread, screwed in a coupling for an airhose,  After this was done
cut a gasket to fit the block and cut a hole for the fitting, then set this on
top of the master cylinder, secured it with a C-clamp and put about 40 lbs of
air on it. (GM recommended 30 to 50 lbs) Then proceeded to bleed my brakes. I
check the fluid level between each wheel cylinder.  So far it's worked on
everything I've tried it on except my Saturn, it has a plastic resovoir!
(harumph)  If you feel that your brake lines need to be "cleaned", Denatured
alcohol works very well ....It get's rid of any water and any that remains
will evaporate in a short while.

Someone said earlier that the good old fashioned lock nuts work the best for
shackle bolts.  He was absolutely correct!  The twisting action caused by the
springs moving up and down will loosen a nylock or a standard nut over time.
Lock washers won't even help here and are really not necessary if using a
good, all steel lock nut. Proper torqueing (?) is one of the bests things to
remember when tightening bolts and screws.  Not enough and it will loosen over
time and too much will stretch the bolt and severely weaken it!
One further note...Nylock's are usually only good for a one time usage. Over
time the threads will form in the nylon and looses it's locking action.

Tim Smith