Ken's Replies and Mark's carb.

[jmbrodsky@domain.elided]

Ken,

     The plugs can be purchased at almost any hardware store.  They are 
plastic/rubber plugs that have a dart style entry.  The plugs are similar to 
those used on IH doors where access to the hinge bolts is necessary.  You may 
even want to use these if you have some extra doors.  They're about 50 cents 
each, and eliminate the fender filling up with leaves etc.  My scout's right 
front fender had leaves clogged half way up before I noticed and emptied it
LAST YEAR!  when you undo the 3 or 4 bolts on the bottom of the fender, if you 
get dirt and such falling out, it's prolly pretty full.

     You'd have to be good with the cutter to remove Rhino.  It's like cutting 
off a sheet of polyurethane bushings 1/4" thick!  Good luck.

     I made my mounts with some sheet steel I had lying around.  It was like 
.010 and it was about the limit of the brake (box and pan with movable fingers) 
that I bent it with.  I formed the new pieces to fit in with the old ones.  
Jacked up the body stuffed/hammered these in, and put the body bolt back 
through.  I also put two 1/4" bolts where the seam is under the rockers, just to
help hold this thing in there.  I haven't checked them in a while, but I'm 
guessing they're still OK.  I wouldn't even want to make another pair for the 
scout again.  Sorry.

-Joel Brodsky

'76 Scout II 345/tf727
'75 T'all 150 4wd 392/tf727

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Date: Thu, 12 Feb 1998 21:07 -0700 (MST)
From: Ken Farmer <Ken.Farmer@domain.elided>
Subject: Rhino

Thanks for the responses to my questions, here are a few follow-ups:
    
1.  Joel, you mentioned putting plugs in holes drilled for drainage
    below the panels between doors & wheel wells.  What kind of plugs
    are you referring to?

2.  As far as the removability of Rhino, perhaps I'll just assume that
    I can mechanically remove it where a new floor will one day have
    to go (with something like a Fein corner sander with the cutting
    disk).

3.  Joel, how did you manufacture your mounts?  Ever consider making
    Travelall ones?  

<4 and 5 snipped)
Thanks,

Ken Farmer
1980 ScoutII 167k miles, 304, T-19, 3.73, 
1974 Travelall 

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Mark,

     You never said you had a 4bbl in there? isn't the 4412 a 4?  I have a spare
2210 2bbl off my friends 345 that you are welcome to have and rebuild if you 
want to.  I used to get about 8 until I REALLY backed off on the starts at the 
streetlight, and got my lead foot out of it too.

    You could always pick up a 2bbl at Mission (my friend got his for $25) and 
get the 2-4 adapter from anywhere.  The adapter is like $20 and you can swap 
carbs all you want.

     I think the consensus was that with the IH V8 line using such low revs all 
that is needed is around 350 cfm?

Good luck,

-Joel Brodsky
'76 Scout II 345/tf727
'75 T'all 150 4wd 392/tf727

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Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 14:28:56 -0700 (MST)
From: Mark A Pepe <mpepe@domain.elided>
Subject: Re: 500 cfm carb

Hey Guys,

 Question for you. I have a 76 traveler with the 345 motor. The
fellow who had it before me put on a Holley 4412 carb (500 cfm) Is this
too much for the engine?
 If I put a spacer underneath would it help in any way? i.e.
mileage, performance?
 If I go to a smaller jet will it help my mileage without bogging
down? The guy at the speed shop said the best thing to do is to get a
smaller (stock) carb. It currently gets about 8 MPG. I think I can do
better.

Thanks in advance

P.S. anyone in the Tucson area interested in a club, please E-mail Joel
Brodsky or myself. It's happening!

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Mark A. Pepe   mpepe@domain.elided  Tucson,Az


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