Re: U-joint geometry, A/T removal

["Bill Thebert" <bthebert@domain.elided>]

Joel Brodsky writes:

>      About the phasing, you are correct.  Whoever has rattles, 
> make sure the yokes on the ends of the drive shaft are 90 deg. 
> out of phase.  If they are in phase,then the whole shaft 'floats' 
> and rattles your fillings out. 

Joel:

Perhaps I missed the beginning of this thread, but this is contrary to
everything I understand about U-joint construction and operation.  

The motion of a bent u-joint is "non-uniform" -- that is, if the "driving"
shaft is rotating at a perfectly consistent 100 rpm, the "driven" shaft on
the other side of the bent joint will actually be speeding up & slowing
down twice per revolution.  Sure, the driven shaft still *averages* 100
rpm, but the motion is not uniform.

The purpose of the "equal and opposite" u-joint angle rule is to reverse
this process.  By inputting an irregular, non-uniform motion to another IN
PHASE u-joint at the very same operating angle, the driven shaft will have
a resulting *uniform* motion equal to that of the original "driving" shaft
in the paragraph above.

Putting the joints 90 degrees out of phase will compound (double) the
non-uniformity of the driveshaft motion rather than "neutralize" it.

> Placement:  Slide back about 8" to pull input shaft from T 
> Converter, then aim bell down and forward, slide forward toward 
> front axle.  Let rear cone down and remove. 
<snip>
> Will it slide back far enough to 
> separate input shaft from TConv.?  

On every automatic transmission I've ever removed, I've manually turned the
motor so as to unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate (working
through the bottom access cover).  The torque converter comes down with the
transmission and is removed later.  You don't need to pull the automatic
"back" nearly like you do with a manual, whose input shaft needs to clear
the clutch disc and the clutch cover assy. Nor is alignment nearly as
challenging on re-installation.

On reassembly, probably the most common installation difficulty I've
observed stems from the failure to fully seat the torque converter all the
way into the pump drive.  As I recall, the front "face" of the torque
converter should be about 1/2" 'into' the bellhousing on complete
insertion. If you can't get the torque converter inserted that far,
withdraw it a bit, rotate it a few degrees and try again. Repeat as needed.
The notches on the "neck" of the torque converter need to match with the
drive portions on the pump.

Good luck.

Bill Thebert
The Binder Bulletin
http://www.binderbulletin.com