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T'Quad is fixed!




     OK so I take the hose off the carb feed from the fuel 
filter, and hook it to the pressure gauge.  4 psi.  I let the 
hose sit in a plastic bottle, and crank the engine.  Good 
delivery.  I pull the filter off, and what runs out of the input 
side is a black sooty mess, scared the berjeebers out of me.  
Anyway, I drained it into the plastic bottle, and it was a rusty 
cloudy mess.  Hmm.  Well, I put the plastic bottle on the output 
side of the fuel pump (now with no filter) and crank.  Three or 
four good shots of crap,then runs clear, good delivery.  Put the 
gauge on, 4psi.  I put the new filter on, connect the gauge, 
4psi.  I run the filter out to the bottle, good delivery.  
Reinstall filter hose, done.  Test drive, and it's still screwed 
up.  But now has a good clean filter.  *Pause*

     The rusty mess is attributable to a few things, I believe.  
1) I run the tanks totally dry before switching the fuel valve, I 
may be picking up rust when the level gets low.  
2) Previous owner probably never filled the entire tank to the 
top for financial reasons, it may be leaching rust from the 
top/inside of the tank since I fill it every time.  Also, 
3) previous owner may have let the truck sit forever before I 
bought it, and rust could've formed in the tank due to humidity.

     OK, so now I look at the carb.  I undo the three linkages 
that go to the carb top, and undo the (12?) screws for the top.  
Pull it off, and look 'er over.  Looks good.  Check all little 
tiny ports with a tiny strand of copper wire, (copper won't 
usually harm a brass jet).  Spray it out in every hole with carb 
spray, flows fine.  Then the shining instant.  I look at the 
bottom of the carb top, and something doesn't look right.  Hmmm.  
OH!  One of the secondary metering jets has loosened up and may 
be leaking at the mounting threads.  BINGO!  Think here, if the 
secondary jet leaks, then the secondary bore will draw air off 
the top of the float bowl, instead of fuel.

-Remember I said it was running on four or five cyls, when I 
opened the secondaries.  That's it!  The secondary would open, 
and since the IH manifold is dual plane: the one side, was 
getting the correct mix, and the leaky side was getting the 
primary metered fuel for both the prim. and the secondary!  Screw 
back down, tighten it up with a 5/16 open end, and look 'er over 
again.  

     Replace carb top, reinstall all screws (following tightening 
pattern from inside to outside so as not to warp the top.  
Tighten in three cycles around, and start it up.  Go for a test 
drive and it runs great.  Starts easy and the secondaries run 
good again.

     Time start/finish.  1.5 hrs for everything.  Went to sleep 
stoked, and drove to work here to tell all.  Thanks to all, for 
the advice!



     -Joel Brodsky
          Well Stoked Electrical Engineer
               Raytheon Missile System Company
                    Tucson, Arizona

         '76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
         '75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
         '72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.




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