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To Bore or not to Bore




>So, the question: After pulling apart the engine, the rings, pistons
>and cylinders look great. There was hardly any ridge on the cylinders, and
>the pistons came right out without ridge reaming.
>
>I haven't been able to come up with a micrometer
>to measure the bores, but I'm figuring that since everything looks good and
>the ridge was so small -- meaning you could just barely feel a ridge in
>certain areas on the cylinder -- I'm assuming that deglazing
>and new rings will work okay. (a guy at a local parts store said if your
>fingernail didn't doesn't catch the ridge, that deglazing will work fine).
>
>Anyone have some knowledge/experience to share?
>
>Thanks...
>- -John
I'd deglaze it and expect it to work fine. Having rebuilt dozens and dozens
of the old Chrysler inline 6's, the rule of "fingernail catching" was
reliable most of the time. The exceptiion would be if the lower cylinder
got all the wear or is out of round which happens occasionially. As I write
this, I've changed my mind. Have a machinist check the wear for you. What's
he going to charge you? Not enough to be worth it not to have it checked
before you do a lot of work.
John

John Hofstetter a.k.a. Ol'Saline, who's been a lot of places none of us is
allowed to go anymore and that's a real tragedy, and who to quote the
senator from Texas, "has more guns than he needs but not as many as he
wants"
79 Scout Terra with 8000 lb. Warn Winch, Detroit Locker in rear and limited
slip in front, 4" Trailmaster lift kit, Holley Electronic Fuel Injection,
Mallory Unilite Distributor                                  MSD ignition
"It's a legend", but it's too darn long and too darn wide sometimes to go
where I ask it to go.

National Rifle Association Life Member   California Rifle and Pistol
Association
Blue Ribbon Coalition                    Friends of Death Valley
Sierra Macintosh Users Group             MacTwain Macintosh Users Group
Association of California School Administrators  Life Member





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