Re: Rehashing a few thoughts

[IHMagellan@domain.elided]

<<   The thought then.. with STEEL wheels and 33x12.50" tires, I have a
pretty 
 good bit of weight down low..  which does two things.
 
 1) Unsprung weight is BAD
 2) Lower weight (even unsprung) lowers the C.G.
 
 Aluminum wheels would lower my unsprung weight, but it wouldn't lower my 
 C.G...
 
So, which is the better compromise?  (Also note, I *like* chrome wheels 
 better, not to mention they run $50 or so vs $100) >>

Tom,

Aluminum wheels are going to be better from a performance standpoint.  The
effect of wheel weight on the overall center of gravity is slight.  The
decrease in unsprung weight with aluminum wheels will do more toward helping
you maintain control of the truck by letting the springs and shocks keep the
tires pressed against the ground more of the time.  The downside of aluminum
wheels is they're more susceptible to trail damage, usually shouldn't be
repaired when bent, and should be inspected for cracks regularly when used
off-road or with large tires.

I'll share some thoughts in case you decide to go with aluminum, avoid cast
wheels if you're anywhere that the state highway dept. feels a need to spread
salt on the roads.  Cast rims corrode a lot faster that spun or forged wheels
because they're more porous.  Forged wheels Mickey Thompsons are the best way
to go, but they're expensive.  On my Scout, I run a Centerline billet series
wheel (spun rim welded to a forged center) with a solid center and a brushed
finish.  I run them without the center caps.  I like the brushed finish
because it doesn't show scratches from brush and mud the way a polished rim
will.  I don't like the solid wheel as well as I thought I would because it's
just about impossible to wash mud and sand from the brake rotors without
taking the wheels off.  Needless to say, brake pads and rotors don't last
long.  We run Centerline Tel-Stars on my wife's YJ.  It's a five spoke
polished rim with a spun rim and forged center.  They're rated for truck use,
and relatively inexpensive.  We get lots of compliments on them, but for some
reason we've never seen another set on the road.  They've been through one
Indiana winter and a lot of mud with basically no maintenance and the finish
is holding up well.
 
 
  <<  The other thought is, of course, to over-fill the tipped differential.
 
 Without my Dana 44 in front of me, I have a hard time visualizing the 
 fill plug, but I know it's not at the extreme top, so a bit of tipping of 
 the pinion would result in not being able to fill the diff "full."  OTOH, 
 one could PUMP it full of gear lube, then put the fill plug back on.. 
 assuming I'm running some fuel line from the vent cap anyway, any other 
 problems if I fill the diff too full?  (and how much is too much?)  >>

I don't have any experience on this one, but I share some thoughts so someone
with experience can comment on them.  It seem to me that you need to maintain
a certain level with respect to the pinion bearings and with respect to the
axle tubes.  When you rotate the differential, you have to run the lube
higher with respect to the axle tubes to maintain the desired level on the
pinion bearing.  Does this increase the likelihood of leaking from the seals
at the ends of the axle tubes?  The fill plug is going to be lower with
respect to both the pinion bearing and the axle tubes, so once the
appropriate level is decided on, I'd add a new fill plug at that height.

Jerry Muncie, IHMagellan@domain.elided (soon to change ISP)
'79 Scout II, 304 AT
'92 Wrangler YJ
'75 Scout II, 345 AT (future project)
5 parts Scouts
'66 Impala SS convertible (soon to be restored)
'74 Chevelle and '79 Z28 project cars for sale
Currently have located and trying to buy '79 Cherokee Golden Eagle
Currently looking for '67 Jeepster convertible in excellent condition and
Scout 80 or 800 half cab