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Ball joint removal
IH all,
I've always been able to remove ball joints with good old
mechanical engineering and a bit of brute. The method is by
loosening the nut that attaches the joint about 1-2 full turns,
enough to see a space between the nut and the fixed side (female
part) of the ball joint. By gently tapping the female part there
are two principles at work to free the joing. First is that you
send a shock through the joint which breaks loose the thin layer of
rust that bonds the two parts together. Second is that for a split
second you are decreasing the size of the wide female part of the
taper, thus forcing the male side of the taper to 'jump' out. I've
drawn an ascii representation at the end here, let me know if it's
ok.
_---------_
/ \__________________________
/
| ball joint
| male side
|
\ __________________________
\_ _/
_---------_
/ \ <--- grease boot
_-------------_
/ fixed side \
| drag link, |
| knuckle, |<------ tap here, don't be afraid to get into it
| tie-rod, etc. | can't really hurt anything.
\_ _/
-------------
----------- <----- space (about 1-2 full turns)
| | | |
| |nut| |
\__|___|__/
Let me know what you think. I was simply amazed when my
father showed me this way back when. Joints just pop out with no
tools necessary. It may be different on rusted solid parts, but on
my '72 carryall which had been swamped over and over by the
previous owner the joints still popped right out.
Let me know, I hate to damage a grease boot when I don't have
to.
-Joel Brodsky
'76 IHC Scout II 345/tf727
'75 IHC Travelall 150 4wd 392/tf727
'72 Chev Carryall 3dr 4wd 350/th350 sold, but not forgotten.
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