Re: <E28> Helen's Euro "Full Monty" **Rob

[rusmaster <rusmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Rob,
    OK, to answer the question from last night.  I've done alot to the car since
we last talked but nothing about why the car is low on power.  Let see, fixed
A/C($700, wow), but I knew this would be expensive.  In fairness to the shop,
two new hoses, one of them being the one from the reciever/dryer to the
evaporator in the center console.  What a huge job.  New reciever/dryer,
pump-down with added dye, leak check system.  Then fill with 2lbs freon.  $700
later, cold air.  I think now it works better than when it was new.  Next time
it's the changeover to R134A.  Replaced automatic antenna.  I thouht about
rebuilding the brocken one, but I remembered what my brother told me during the
RL/BB job, "You don't put anything used on this car, what are you thinking
about, don't get cheap on me"!!!!!   So, new unit.  The biggest job for me is
the stereo work.

I put in another amp, thats 5.  And also installed another active EQ/crossover.
Thats 2.  So the system now boast 475W and 10 speakers.  I pulled the rear seat
and ran the rear RCA pre-amp out of the deck to the rear trunk crossover(now I
can fade front to rear with the deck), and ran the separate sub-woofer volume
control to the dash where I installed the conrtol knob next to the lights
switch.   I cut out the filler panel there so the install looks factory clean.
All above work took 2 days and lots of odd work positions inside the cab and
trunk.  But it sounds real good.  I noticed the Blaupunkt speakers in the front
kick panels in your rig.  How big is the woofer in that?  Right now I have
Infinity 4x6 in there with the factory covers.  But I like your set there if the
woofer is big enough?   Just as info, I have 2x12" subs on the  rear seat
sheetmetal across the back.  I cut out 10" openings and installed the subs from
the rear with aircraft hangers then bolted them in.  This allows removel from
the trunk if they need replacing.  I have 2x6" woofers in the rear deck with
2x2" tweeters in custom panels.  I'm using the facotry tweeter in the door(they
need replacements now, I think one is dead) and the 4x6s in the kick panels.
Theres one amp for each speaker pair and a EQ/crossover for front and for rear.
I custom made a box for the trunk that all the electronics are housed on.  This
box maximizes trunk space so I loose very little with all the equipment.
Essentially it stands vertically across the back, I have the 2 xovers and 2 amps
on the front and 3 amps on the back.  I've probably got $7k invested in parts
and an astronomical amount  in labor for the entire system now.  The next trick
is to install 8" woofers in the sheetmetal below the rear seats.  This is a
great spot to get some more bass kick in the cab.  Maybe next year I'll get to
that.

So, I've done nothing to improve power on the car, but thats next.  I'm seeing
the oil light flicker again at idle.  I believe that the oil pump is starting to
go.  I fixed the spray bar bolts about 7 months ago.  So I don't neccessarily
suspect there loose again.  Anyway, I don't think replacing the pump is a DIY
job.  Removing the oil pan involves removing suspension pieces, and also
removing the A/C pump & bracket and the hydraulic pump & bracket.  So, If I have
to spend all that money, I might as well do the stroker engine.  This is good
timming to, I have my registration due in Nov.  I also have to smog the car this
year.  This will give me a full 2 years to get the engine in and get it running
as to be able to get it smogged here in CA.   Like I said, I'm done with bolt on
stuff.  I also have about all the bolt-on stuff thats availible on it anyway.  I
guess with the engine, I practicaly have a new car, except for the transmission
and paint.  See below.

To finish on the low performance end, I suspect there may be somthing wrong.
I'm in the process of replacing the xfer pump, O2 sensor and ignition wires.  I
did have a bad throotle position switch that I replaced with the enlarged
throotle body.  I'm thinking of taking out the fuel injectors and having them
cleaned.  I suspect the catalytic converter may be bad also.  Although I have no
idea how to test it.  I figure since the other stuff has never been replaced on
my car, their probably due for it.  After all that, if it's still down on power,
I would suspect the engine.  Bad pistons, rings, head, valves, valve train,
ect.  I guess a compression test and leakdown test would be in order.  Or maybe
I should do it earlier just incase?  If there are any suggestion, drop me a
line.

Sorry for the long winded mail, but it felt good to let you know whats been up.

Take Care,
Russ

Rob Levinson wrote:

> I finally got off my butt and posted some pictures of Helen, my '85 535i
> Turbo, with all the Euro junk I bolted on.
>
> I spent waaay too much money on real BMW Euro bumpers and Euro headlights
> (although, as usual, I couldn't resist the urge to go a little more powerful
> with the bulbs).
>
> Pictures and details:
>     http://www.bubbaclub.com/rob/callaway.htm
>
> And of course, full P'Fest 2 details:
>     http://www.bubbaclub.com
>
> - Rob Levinson
> '85 535i Turbo (it's a hole in the road into which I throw my money)  ;-)

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