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Brake Pads-break in

Dan says... 

> Installed the loating rotors.  At Sebring last weekend, now it is
> time to go to better than OEM pads.  Thanks to all who gave me input
> on the pads they like.  Before the next driving school, I'll have a
> set of higher performance pads.  QUESTION:  How long before the
> school should I install the new pads?
>  Do I need to have a few hundred miles on them to "seat" them?   Or
>  is it
> less?  Is it a bad idea to install them the morning of the track
> session?
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.  
> 

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Dear Dan,

Start off slowly.  Don't do any hard braking before they are seated.  
You can seat them by doing slow, easy , medium speed braking, 
increasing the preassure and speed over 30 or 40 miles.  Once you 
have done this a few times (like each day that you go to work), you 
can start doing some harder, faster braking.  This applies to 
breaking in street pads.  Some people have much more of a ritual, but 
this suffices for me.

For race pads, I would NOT put them on any earlier before the track 
event than is necessary.  Put them on a couple of days ahead of time, 
do like I suggested above, but be extra careful not to brake hard 
until the pads are very warm or hot.


NEVER brake hard until the brakes are warmed up.  It is the KEY to 
rotor and pad longevity.  No matter what kind of pads you are 
running, this is true.  Let them warm up gradually.

Types of pads....ideally, you should have track pads-for track ONLY, 
and street pads.  If this is not your desire, get some high 
performance street pads.  Hawk HPS from TC Kline, or Z rated, from 
Performance Friction.  I use PBR Deluxe, which are not "high 
performance " street pads, but are better than stock, and cheap.  For 
the track, I use Hawk Blues.  Very dirty, rotor abrasive, expensive, 
and noisy, but they are the best, and work no matter how hot.  Hard 
use of race pads on the street (where they never really get up to 
operating temperature) will be VERY abbrasive to your rotors.

I wrote a couple of brake pad articles, which I will send if you 
don't already have them.

Best regards,

Carl

ps  if your old rotors are still true, and not too gouged, I would be 
interested in buying them.  I am VERY hard on rotors, and replace 
them very often.  If you, or anyone else out there want to upgrade 
to the new floating rotors, and want to get some of your money back 
by selling your old rotors, let me know.

Carl R. Buckland
1000 Boston Bldg
Nine Exchange Place
Salt Lake City, Utah  84111
801-531-6686
Fax 531-6690
E Mail buckland@domain.elided