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M6 clutch and clutch slave



From: Norman Hom {hom-lanihau@domain.elided}
Date: Friday, Sept. 13 96
Subject: M6 clutch and clutch slaves

I have a '84 633 which had a very similar problem  where the clutch pedal
would not fully return (back up).  Being the "oh I can fix that" type,
but not with a lot of free time..........I resorted  to pulling it back up with my foot.  It finally got worse (stuck to the floor) where I ended
up reaching down with my hand to pull it up.  At this point I had to look
into it.

The problem was the clutch slave piston had somehow started to angle off
to the left and eventually was rubbing so much against the fly wheel
housing that it wore the opening in the fly wheel housing larger.  The
fix was to remove the clutch slave and re-install it.  Although I had
ordered a new slave and had it on hand, checking the old one it looked
ok and did work fine once I reinstalled it properly.  The slave worked
fine since, although I did change it a couple of years after when I was
flushing the brake fluid.  I flush the clutch slave fluid at the same
time so replacing the slave was easy as I had unbolted the slave.

Hope this helps.

Regarding bleeding clutch slaves........

The only way that I have been able to bleed those darning things is to
unbolt them and push the piston back in a couple of times.  The force to
push the piston back into the slave takes some doing.  By pushing the piston in with a piece of  wood or against something stationary the air
bubbles are pushed back up to the brake fluid bottle in the engine compartment.  Make sure if you do this that you drain some brake fluid from
the bottle or the brake fluid  will over flow.  For the most recent
bleeding I cut a hole in a piece of wood allowing the slave piston to stick out of the other side of  the hole.  I  then used  another piece of
wood against the slave piston pressing the two wood pieces together with
 wood clamps.  One on each side of the slave piston.  Can't remember the
brand of the wood clamps, but they are the type that have the handles
that you squeeze to close the jaws.  Just close both jaws at the same
time evenly.

I have not had any success bleeding the slave with someone pumping the
pedal or using a vacuum bleeder.  Never has worked adequately for me.  I
read in one manual that to peddle bleed, the clutch slave bleeder valve
needs to face either up (or was it down) so the air in the lines could
flow up to the brake fluid bottle.  I was not sure exactly how this
could work since you can not remove the slave from the car and push the
clutch peddle in.   I accidently did it once (reflex action when
starting the car) and the piston popped out of the slave.  

Any one have an easy method to bleed the clutch slave?.......... I hate
to unbolt the slave and do the "push the piston in" routine.  It is a
pain and extra work..

any hints appreciated for easy clutch slave bleeding.

Norman
{hom-lanihau@domain.elided}