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Remove the shift mount assembly (13mm socket). WD-40 on the threads
seemed to ease the abuse that the rubber bushing was taking.
Now comes the fun part:
I'm told that you can remove the engine mounts and lower the
engine down 2-3 inches, so that there is more room above the transmission.
In any event, I didn't do that. There are 4 torx bolts that connect
the tranmsission to the engine. 2 are trival to get, 1 is sort of
challenging. 1 is an unmitigated pain. In order to get extra clearance,
I did the following. Remove insulation (carefully is optional),
place a piece of wood on top of the tranmission and jack it up to
crush the firewall/tunnel to get an extra 1" of clearance.
If you lower the transmission, and then lower the engine jack so that
the whole assembly tilts backwards, you get a fair amount of clearance.
Mine tilted back so that the head almost touched the firewall.
Then, using a universal joint (electrical tape wrapped around the joint
helps restrict the movement and stiffens it up - works great, another
innovation that I liked). Oh, Torx socket, universal joint, 3 5"
3/8" extensions and a 8" 1/2" extension and a breaker bar were needed.
I loosened all, then removed starting with the top. (Truth time,
I could'nt believe there was one up there, until the tranmsission
refused to seperate. I never actually saw the bolt, I could only
feel it. - Swear off German beer).
With a jack under the tranny, ease (with a pry bar) off the tranny.
It only weighs about 40 lbs, don't drag it across the floor.
Remove the abestos dust, and look at the flywheel. Any blisters?
Gouges? No, great, remove the pilot bearing. Otherwise, machine it
or buy a new one.
This is an excellent time to replace the tranny oil and take a break
(besides it 8pm, and it's dinner time)
Installation:
Clean and replace/grease the release bearing.
Using the alignment tool, put the clutch plate and pressureplate
on.
With a willing partner ease the tranny up to the engine. Be sure
to have it in gear (reverse was what it was supposed to be in), and
rotate the drive point. This will align the spline so that the
tranny can go in.
Start the Torx bolts, and on the three easy ones, tighten all the way
down, and then remove 1/2". This gets everything set.
Put in the top Torx. When done, re-call Country station and
request "Sink the Bismark".
Torque Torx to 65lbs, they were probably 100lbs from the factory. I
was told that this excessive torque is what warps the blocks and
causes asymetrical wear on cylinder #6.
Replace small bolts, slave cylinder, sensors.
Replace shifter assembly & reconnect backup light.
Replace driveshaft. Replace rear transmission mount, shielding
and exhaust.
Remove hydraulic jacks, replace starter bolts.
Bleed hydraulic clutch.
Reinstall gear shifter - a screw driver and needlenose pliers worked
well.
Replace battery lead, start car up and drive around, marveling at
how nice the clutch feels. Park car and notice pinhole leak
in radiator...
Usual disclaimers apply....
----------------------------------------------------------------------
"I forced him to land ..., but it was Christmas Eve, so I let
him go. Besides, who would believe a Beagle could fly"
BM v. Richthofen
Lawrence C. Schuette schuette@domain.elided
Code 5585 (202)767-3040
Naval Research Laboratory (202)445-0648 (cell. phone)
Washington D.C. 20375-5337 (202)767-1122 (fax)
//www.ait.nrl.navy.mil/people/schuette/schuette.html