hydraulic clutch

[Richard Lane <srlane@xxxxxxxxx>]

Andrew Watry said...

>>Non-hydraulic alternatives include (1) putting a 1750 with 1600 flywheel in
a mechanical clutch car, which works nicely and is a bolt-in job, and (2)
using the Zebell TO bearing adaptor to mate a 2000 engine to a 104
mechanical-clutch trans and bellhousing.  This makes for a very stiff clutch
pedal though, with a serious now-it's-in/now-it's-out action kind of like a
light switch.  Alfa diaphragm clutches (1750, 2000) were meant to have
hydraulic actuation, not mechanical.<<
--------------------------------------------------------------
I think I found a 3rd alternative (although I'm definitely not the first to
find this)- unfortunately my engine is still apart so I can't tell you how well
it works. I'm building a 2000 engine to go in a 1600 (mechanical clutch) car.

I had decided to go Andrew's route (2) with the throwout adapter, but then
started looking for an aluminum flywheel for the engine - and found one that is
sized for the 1600 clutch/bellhousing (older, non-diaphragm clutch) but with
attachment to a 2000 crank (6-bolt) and a 105 tooth ring gear. In other words
it adapts the 2000 crank to the older clutch (and bellhousing/starter) so that
you can keep the mechanical actuation. I'm told that the older clutch, while
less robust than the later diaphragm clutch, is definitely strong enough for
the 155-ish bhp I anticipate, but wouldn't really enjoy 8000rpm from a racing
engine (and I'm not going racing).

None of these solutions are inexpensive - a used hydraulic-underfloor pedal-box
is a pretty rare find and so not cheap. The throwout adapter is quite expensive
(although the diaphragm clutch is cheaper). And of course an aluminum flywheel
doesn't come cheap - but is a nice thing to have in the engine anyway and
everything else remains stock. 

-Richard
1967 GTV
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