RE: Spring Removal, Spider

[Jon Pike <jhpike@xxxxxxx>]

> Dion Fields referred to a spring compressor for removal of the front
> springs from a Spider but there is a safer and easier way: Temporarily
> replace each of the four bolts holding the front lower spring pan with
> a short 4" length of 5/16 - 18 threaded rod with a washer and nut at
> each end. At one end, after the nut is on, distort the rod threads so
> the nut cannot be removed; install these "bolts" so the free nut ends
> are on the underside of the spring pan. Now sequentially "unthread"
> the nuts, two or three turns at a time untill the spring pan is fully
> lowered and there is no more tension on the spring. Re-install the
> spring reversing the procedure.
> Gil
I've still never seen the Alfa spring compressor in person or in a 
picture, well the front one anyway..

I just lowered mine (finally) myself,  a few notes..

I spent major time obsessing over how strong the allthread rods needed
to be, then finally found a source of load ratings.. the hardened
B7 grade stuff I was looking at is good for 4000 lbs??!!??

OK.. guess I don't need the special stuff..  ;-)

I did end up using 3/8" for one worthy reason.. it's 16 threads to the 
inch, so less turns!  Part way thru this, you WILL be wishing you spent 
the big bucks for 12 tpi Acme threaded rods..

I got some Grade 5 nuts, since I figured strength is important there, 
and used the time hounored lock two nuts together on the shaft technique 
for the top fixed nut.  It came in handy, since the back two bolts have 
no or nearly no clearance to drop them in from the top. So, rod up thru 
the bottom, nuts and washer on, lock with a pair of wrenches..  and on 
to the other end.

The washers were a certain 5/16" that fit on a 3/8" shaft, but were 
about 3/4" in dia, small enough to fit flush under the rim of the spring 
pans.

They also were about .100" thick, and 9 or 10 on the bottom side made a 
nice spacer to bring the under pan nut out enough to make for easy 
clearance for a straight wrench.

I bought 50 in bags, cost just a few bucks.  Just about all of the 3/8" 
washers were so big they wouldn't lay flat under the pan, and had a lot 
of slack around the rod.  Hey, these are acting as thrust bearings!
I want as much area as I can get!  As well as a nice smooth finish..

The other thing about the rods..  I found some 10" sections, they were a 
little longer than needed..  but 4" will probably be too short, unless 
your springs are fairly lower than stock.  My (pretty sure) stock 
springs needed nearly 8" to go slack.  I guess you could go half way 
down, then finish with a floor jack... but it's still less safe.

Sawing a 3' piece of rod into 4 pieces would be about right at 9" each, 
as well.  Save a little space that four 1 foot rods would use.

It went pretty easy though not very fast.. you'll learn how much is the 
optimum amount to loosen at a time..  I got into a pattern of lowering 
two on one side, getting up, laying down on the other side, and doing 
those two for 2-3 turns. etc..  Hint: get a block of foam or something 
as a shop pillow! My neck got a MAJOR workout doing this!  ;-)

I guess I'll be fondly remembering how much easier lowering was, when I 
finish the bushings and crank the springs back up!  Maybe some Teflon 
grease will be a worthwhile investment..

Hope it helps!

Jon
77 Spider
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