Stupid timing light questions

[alfacybersite <acs@domain.elided>]

(It would be greatly appreciated if all responding say, "Hey, Biba,
there are no stupid questions, etc. etc. - rather than, "Yup, right,
pretty stupid Biba.").

Since I've confessed to this before...one more time (not sure if pun is
intended or not). Used to have a basic timing light. Rarely used it. It
walked away some time ago. After rebuilding an engine (applies to old
fashioned points distributors) would have #1 close to being ready to
pop. Put car in 5th, turn on ignition and pushed 'til points popped.
Immediately turned off ignition switch and verified how close I was to
F, the static timing mark. Adjusted as required and repeated until she
popped at F. Then I drove it and made minor adjustments to the
distributor until 'she felt right' and I had the nice medium brown
coloration on the plugs.

So who needs a timing light? Unfortunately the fellow who installs a
MarelliPlex on his carbureted Alfetta GT - that's who. Nothing goes pop
when you push, so I eyeballed it. Engine ran on after shutting off, so
retarded, still running on, retarded some more, yet, still more running
on. Ulp.

Picked up a new timing light at Sears today (Model No. 21023, top of the
line, at least in Pasadena). I'm less than impressed. Am sure it is
doing what it is supposed to do. I paid the extra 20 bucks to get the
dial on the back which apparently one always sets at 0. Ergo, why even
bother with a dial (except to sucker guys like me into thinking it Must
be better)?

Actually what I wanted for my $67 was for the timing light to start the
car, check static timing, then rev the engine to exactly 5k, check it
again, reach out and then adjust the distributor as required - and I
would've been happy. A plug check would have been nice too.

May we interrupt the whining to make a salient point: Since the car is a
'75 and once upon a time had a Spica, the static timing mark (F) is 4 -
6 degrees BTDC on the pulley. Since I've gone Euro, it should now be 6 -
8 degrees ATDC - but it's not.

Once home (shop) upon first firing up the timing light, idle was around
P (TDC) and max advance at (approximately) 5k rpm was about 12 to 15
degrees short of M (maximum advance mark). I shut off and advanced
distributor. Static timing (eyeball wise since there is no mark) looked
about right. Car idled much better. Now max advance is 'only' about 10
degrees short of the M mark (eyeball wise).

Methinks there might be a problem with the centrifugal advance
mechanism. Didn't someone recently say in essence that the advance
mechanism on the MarelliPlex distributor sucked? I also gathered it did
so from birth.

Must I go back to good old fashioned points and simply throw the timing
light in the trash, or is there a better solution?

Biba
Frustrated, again, in Irwindale, CA USA

[So what else did you have to do on a (daylight savings) Saturday night?
Have a life???].
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