Epilogue - Spider rear wheel bearing

[Kevin Trent <trentkc@domain.elided>]

Three weeks ago I whined to the digest that I had a bad rear wheel bearing 
on my '73 spider, but could not get the brake rotor off to even begin the 
repair. No amount of heat or pullers were working.  I received several 
responses to my dilemma and a few off-line requests for the solution 
if/when I effected the repair.  Here it is:

Tom and Russ suggested removing the axle and rotor as a unit by removing 
the 4 bolts that hold the brake backing plate to the axle tube, then use a 
slide hammer (or equivalent) to remove the axle/rotor (be sure to 
disconnect the emergency brake cable for that side at the differential 
mechanism).  That solution worked for me, though there was still a bit of 
effort to pull out the stuck axle.  Once off, I still had a very rusted 
stuck rotor attached to the axle, but had a much better angle of attack for 
my BFH tool.  What finally worked was placing the rotor/axle between two 
same-height work benches such that the rotor was supported by the work 
benches but the brake backing plate was in the gap.  This allowed the rotor 
to be supported but not the backing plate (also had the benches in a V 
configuration to support as much rotor surface as possible).  Then I used 
my Thor brass sledge hammer to wail on the center of the axle hub where it 
protrudes from the brake rotor.  That is a small target, particularly when 
you are trying to get a full and powerful swing, so be sure to use a hammer 
softer than the wheel studs when you miss!  Or use a hydraulic press...

I had been using liberal amounts of penetrating oil, and finally the rotor 
began to loosen up and separate. Required LOTS of heavy hits!

The rest of the disassembly was straightforward.  I removed the emergency 
brake shoes by pushing and turning the hold down springs 90 degrees with a 
5mm hex, then disconnecting the springs.  One of the best tips was from 
Greg who cautioned to PAY ATTENTION to how the emergency brake was 
assembled.  In particular, the emergency brake cable is attached to an 
"actuator" that has two small pins that will fall out and could be easily lost.

After I had the emergency brake shoes and hardware removed, I also removed 
the 4 studs from the backing plate that are used to secure the assembly to 
the axle tube.  These studs and the brake hardware will get in the way of 
removing the bad wheel bearing.  At this point you have the axle with brake 
backing plate sandwiched between the wheel flange and the wheel bearing.

I took the assembly to my Good Ol' Boy machinist who removed the old 
retainer and wheel bearing, and replaced the new parts.  Took him 15 
minutes, and he did it with a BFH and brute force.  First he used a stout 
steel punch about 2" in diameter and the previously mentioned hammer to 
break the old bearing's outer race by wacking it REAL HARD while it was 
supported by some steel bars. He also used the same process to hit the 
retainer few times after which he was able to drive it off.  The bearing's 
inner race was cut with an air tool, whacked a few times and then driven 
off.  Finally he used his hydraulic press to gently push on the new bearing 
and retainer.  Cost me 15 bucks - what a deal!

The wheel bearing was bad.  Several digesters cautioned me that these wheel 
bearings rarely fail, and suggested alternative faults.  This bad bearing 
had one deformed ball bearing, and the inner race was badly scored.  Now I 
know why there was that irregular ticking-taping noise - the bearing cage 
was getting hung up on the race as the wheel turned.  However, the bearing 
still had lubrication and turned freely, if not smoothly, and did not 
appear ready for a immanent failure.

//kct, Powell, TN   
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