Re: Cigarette Seals

[bearbvd@domain.elided (Greg Hermann)]

Sounds like a nice upgrade, Tom. How about swapping allen head set-screws
(either metric OR American OK!) for the threaded rod, though??

Greg

At 10:52 PM 5/7/02, Tom Sanor wrote:
>Many years ago I learned this improvement from someone, and I've used it
>successfully on all my  Alfa engine rebuilds:
>
>Instead of using the hard rubber cigarette seals, torque the bearing cap in
>place then tap the holes down around an inch with a std. 3/8" thread tap.  At
>the hardware store obtain a length of 3/8" threaded rod and saw off two pieces
>around 1/2" or so in length.  These will be plugs for the newly tapped
>cigarette holes.  On one end of each plug cut a screwdriver slot with a
>hacksaw.  At this point clean up the threads, and also unbolt and remove the
>main bearing cap and clean up there, too.
>
>Now reinstall the main bearing cap (for the final time) and torque in place
>and lock down, being certain you can screw the plugs in below the top of the
>cap edge.  With the plugs out, fill the cigarette holes up but not all the way
>with a good GE or Dow Corning 100% silicon rubber from a tube, being as
>careful as you can not to trap air bubbles.  Now screw the plug into the wet
>silicon rubber down to flush with the cap surface.  Wipe up any silicon rubber
>the comes out the cracks.
>
>Let engine set for a month(!) if possible so the silicon can cure, then screw
>the plugs down in another 1/8" or so.  This puts a final compression on the
>cured rubber in the cigarette holes.  Finish by smearing silicon rubber on top
>the crew slots up to flush with the cap.  That's it, so now finish the engine
>rebuild.  One could use metric threads; I do not because we can't readily find
>metric rod stock in the US.
>
>Note that I always enscribed a message nearby on the smooth pan mating surface
>of the block with an electric etching tool WARNING any future engine builder
>of what lurks below the exposed rubber in the cigarette holes.
>
>Works great.
>
>Mr. Goose
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