Re: alfa-digest V7 #1080 - Wheel Studs

[AlfaNeely@domain.elided]

Kevin,
    I used a press to remove the studs from my front rotors and rear axles.  
However, a STEEL hammer should drive them right out.  A brass hammer might be 
too soft to get the rust broken and the stud moving.  Do not force them, get 
a bigger hammer!  (That is a joke, son.)
    New studs can be pulled into place with a stack of washers, a bit of oil 
and a NEW lug nut.  Install the lug nut backwards so the flat face is against 
the washers and the stud should pull into place easily.
     Make sure the new lug bolt is turned correctly so the flat edge will be 
in the correct orientation.  Look at the back side of the rotor to see how 
the flat on the head of the studs fits against the side of the rotor before 
you take the old ones out.  Or do one side at a time so you can use the other 
rotor as a reference!  That is a trick I always had to use to get drum brakes 
back together.

    On my 1984 Alfa Spider ITB race car, I replaced the studs with Moroso 
#46200 wheel studs.  They are actually a 3 inch long 1/2 - 20 Allen bolt with 
threads all the way down to the head.  The existing 12 mm holes are slightly 
too large, but close enough to just tap them for the threaded bolts.  There 
are two problems.  The first is that the inside of the rotor must be milled 
to give the head of the Allen bolt clearance (it does not have the flat edge 
of the stock lug bolts).  On the rear, I installed the studs through the hole 
that used to be for activating the former emergency brake.  The hole was not 
quite large enough, but a drill solved that problem.
    The second problem is getting the studs in straight.  Actually, it is 
tough getting the holes tapped straight so the studs are straight.  I thought 
I had everything tapped straight until I tried to install the 3/4 inch thick 
wheel spacers and the outer ends of the studs are obviously out of alignment. 
 When the wheels are installed everything pulls into alignment and the wheels 
do not wobble, but it ain't perfect and I know it (if you are a 
perfectionist, you know what I mean).  I intend to build a spare set of front 
hubs and rear axles, but will tap them in a mill or drill press for more 
precision.
    I am using standard Ford lug nuts on 14 x 6 Daytona style wheels.  That 
size wheel is required by the ITB rules.  However, the Daytona style wheel 
does not have enough offset, thus the 3/4 inch wheel spacers.  Also the 
center hub of the Daytona wheel is quite thick and wastes a lot of the 
additional lug bolt length.
    I am looking for alternative wheels.  Mustang 7x15 wheels are about 
perfect for fender clearance with no spacers, but they are not legal in ITB.  
The Mustang wheels are also much heavier.  Any other suggestions for 6 x 14 
wheels?
Ciao,
Russ Neely
Oklahoma City
Yes, the race car is finally done, my wife can have our marriage back and I 
can again procrastinate by reading Alfa Digest.
    


In a message dated 10/07/1999 6:37:34 AM Central Daylight Time, 
owner-alfa-digest@domain.elided writes:

<< 
 Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 23:15:10 -0400
 From: Kevin Trent <trentkc@domain.elided>
 Subject: Replacing front wheel studs on 105/115?
 
 I recently upgraded the rear axle on my '71 berlina to a late model LSD
 unit.  I have also purchased new studs so that all 4 wheels will have studs
 that are the conventional right-hand (clockwise to tighten) threads.   My
 question: What is the proper method to remove and replace the left hand
 threads remaining on the driver's side front hub?    Can I bash them out of
 the front rotor with my good old Thor brass sledge hammer, or do they need
 to be pressed out with a hydraulic ram?  I don't want to damage my rotor,
 but I having them pressed out makes this a multi-day repair with an
 outsource for the stud R&R.    Suggestions?  Thanks.
 
 KCT 
 Knoxville, Tennessee
  >>

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