re: Winter in Connecticut

[TJCallahan@domain.elided]

In AD v7n1072, Rob requested info on storing his first Alfa for the winter. 

Below is the text sent to the AD from Bob Rand on Wed, 22 Oct 1997, it was 
entitled "Winter storage tips...":

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Over the years, I have received advice and experiences with winter storage of 
our so loved Alfas.  I have tried to place all this information in one list 
to share with others.  

Disclaimer:  My experience is solely with Spiders so you may have to alter 
your procedures for different vehicles.  I also live in the Northeast where 
the winters are real cold and we get a January thaw which presents some 
condensation concerns.  Please don't take this as the final word.  Please 
look at this as a laundry list for winter hibernation considerations.  Any 
comments, both positive and negative, which may help others and myself are 
greatly appreciated.  Best of luck and sleep tight.

In the Fall:

1. Test drive (hard) - To determine if anything should be put on your list to 
fix either over the fall or winter.  When others are waiting for parts in the 
spring and inspections are holding back getting your car on the road, you'll 
be glad you are all set. (examples- lights, bearing noises, bushing creaks, 
alignments, brake noises or problems, etc.) Not to say you can fix 
everything, but some of the items that will keep it off the road in the 
spring may be something to address.
 
2. Engine oil - If it has not been done within the last month, change it and 
the filter now.  Let the engine run to operating temp. to allow that clean 
oil to bathe the entire engine for its nap.  (For SPICA owners- don't forget 
the SPICA oil filter which can accumulate sludge)  Because of condensation 
over the winter, remember to change the oil again in the spring to get rid of 
the water sitting on the bottom of your sump.
 
3. Engine coolant - with a cool engine, inspect the old coolant for oil 
foaming which may indicate a problem with the head gasket. Install a Prestone 
flushing tee and flush the cooling system, including the heater core.  Drain 
the entire system as much as possible. Replace with the appropriate 
percentage (50/50) of quality antifreeze and distilled water. This will 
reduce the pH inside your aluminum block and prolong engine integrity by 
reducing the acidity of the coolant.  Start the engine with the cap off and 
bubble out any air.  Fill as necessary.  Cover the radiator and bleed off any 
remaining air with the bleeder (Bosch models only, I think).  Run to 
operating temp so the thermostat opens as necessary.  Be sure to change the 
coolant in the overfill reservoir.
 
4. Fuel tank - if you suspect you have water in the fuel tank now, fill the 
tank and use the appropriate drying agent to get rid of the water.  Then fill 
it again with premium fuel and the correct quantity of fuel stabilizer. Run 
the vehicle to make sure the fuel/stabilizer is run through the entire fuel 
system.  A full tank of fuel will prevent the dreaded condensation and 
therefore rust in the fuel tank itself.  (Steel will not rust when submerged 
in a petroleum product)  Draining the tank to remove excess water may be 
necessary.  Judgment on your part is required.
 
5. Exterior - Wash, polish, and wax the exterior. Treat the convertible top 
with your favorite protectant (as applicable). 
 
6. Engine - Remove the spark plugs and coat the walls of the cylinders with 
NAPA "The Fogger" Motor Storage Protectant part number 765-2632 available at 
NAPA auto parts store.  Remove the positive wire to the coil and crank a few 
times to assure full coating.  Replace the plugs to proper torque settings.
 
7. Battery - Remove the battery, clean if necessary, fully charge, and store 
in a cool, dry place.  Full charge once again during the winter and once 
again before use in the spring.
 
8. Carburetor - Spray some WD-40 on carb linkages, bodies and inside to 
prevent corrosion. 
 
9. Hydraulic fluids - Replace with fresh fluid to also remove water or other 
unwanted products.  Using a CLEAN device to remove the old fluid from the 
reservoir (turkey baster, siphon pump, etc.), fill with clean fluid and bleed 
each line starting with the farthest from the master cylinder working to the 
closest.  Use whatever bleeding system works for you.  The key is to keep the 
clean fluid in and the air out.  This should also be done with the hydraulic 
clutch in the same manner.  It may be tougher to access, but should be done.
 
10. Vapor Barrier - Place the car on a piece of poly plastic to make a vapor 
barrier between the floor and the bottom of the car.  The "drive-in" 
dehumidifiers are great too, but be gentle as to not rip them.
 
11. Raise - Raise the car off the ground and support by placing large, solid 
wood blocks under the rear axle (not directly under the springs causing 
pressure on the trailing arm bushing).  Don't use concrete blocks for they 
are subject to cracking and will not hold the load.  Jack stands are nice, 
but if you only have two sets and need to work on other vehicles in your 
fleet, you're stuck.  I have used pieces of landscape beams (6" x 6") and 
they work fine. The front can be supported either under the spring pans, the 
jacking points, or the frame rails.  I prefer the spring pans because it puts 
less stress on the body.  If you support under the jacking points, the entire 
weight of the front of the car is trying to bend the car in half at the jack 
point.
 
12. Tires - Lower the air pressure in tires by a few psi (not flat, though) 
and treat with favorite protectant.
 
13. Bushings - Spray some silicone on all the bushings to keep them pliable 
and reduce squeaks.
 
14. Orifices - Place rags in the exhaust and intake ports to prevent nesting 
of our little friends.
 
15. Interior - Vacuum the interior and install moth balls (in their own 
container).  You can also place those "mini-dehumidifiers in a can" which 
will absorb condensation in the interior, trunk, and engine compartment. 
Cover car with a quality, breathable cover.  Keep convertible top up.  Store 
toneau cover in a clean area.

In the Winter:

1. Wheels/Tires - Rotate wheels/tires by hand a few revolutions every couple 
of days to keep bearings and seals loose.
 
2. Battery - Fully charge battery once (mid-winter).


In the Spring:

1.  Exterior/Interior - Remove car cover, mothballs, dehumidifiers, and any 
other storage related objects.
 
2.  Tires - Inflate the tires to recommended pressure.
 
3.  Lower - Lower the car from its perch.
 
4.  Engine Oil - Change the oil again (before starting!) to discard the water 
which has collected in the bottom of the pan. Remove the cam cover and put a 
small amount of engine oil over the cams.  Replace the cover (time to change 
the cover gasket?).
 
5.  Battery - Fully charge battery and install it.
 
6.  Engine - Remove the plugs and the positive coil wire and turn the cams 
with the starter.  Turn the engine enough to get oil pressure up, then 
replace the plugs and wire.
 
7.  Fire it up!!

When this is done, your rolling gem will be ready for spring and you won't 
have to be fishing rust out of fuel lines, scoring the cylinder walls, 
pulling mice nests out of your intakes, or getting that "rejected" inspection 
sticker which we all love.

Best of luck and lets hope the winter is a calm one.
Bob Rand
1987 Alfa Spider Quad.
AROC & AONE member
****************************************

Kudos to Bob Rand for assembling this info. Bob, my apologies for re-posting 
without first asking.

ciao

Tom
'63 Spider
'77 Alfetta GT
Seattle

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