Re: engine & trans removal

[BHIGGINS2@xxxxxxx]

In a message dated 98-11-30 20:05:03 EST, you write:

<< >Next Weekend I am attempting to remove the Engine & transmission in one
 >piece.  I need to know if the shift lever has to be disassembled in
 >order for the engine-transmission to come out.  
 
 (I am assuming you are working on a 105 - 115 spider.  If instead
 you have one of them new-fangled cars, then you're on your own!)
 
 Yea, it has been my experience that not only must the shift lever
 be removed from the "stub", via loosening the pinch bolt, but the
 stub must also be removed from the box, in order for the box to
 readily clear the sheetmetal beneath the firewall.

Some good advice has already been provided - I would like to add my $.02
worth: 
 
The stub does not HAVE to be removed (no doubt it likely makes it a bit
easier) - it does take some finesse with the engine hoist to clear the top of
the trans tunnel at the firewall (helps to have two people too - I can remove
an engine and trans by myself but haven't yet figured out how to install one
solo yet).  

Move the engine hoist strap from the middle studs on the head to the second
set - move forward one place - this helps tilt the engine and trans to clear
the tunnel.

If you don't remove "stub" - Tape (duct tape) circular covers in place around
the "stub" or they will fall off and dirt will fall into the opening.

By all means take the hood off and remove the radiator and take the
engine/trans out over the front of the car.  I saw a photo somewhere of a
spider engine and trans poised over the car with the hood on like it was ready
to go back in - I don't know if it can be done with the hood on - but IMHO
hoods and radiators are too valuable to risk being "bumped" with an engine.

Also, I have learned the hard way - make sure that the car and engine hoist
(assuming hoist has wheels) is on level ground - even a slight slope can
result in accidental "bumps" or "rubs" with the engine and transmission.

 You will encounter interference with the drag link (that
 rod between the steering and the idler arms).  

The front of the bell housing will catch on the tie rod if it is not moved.
Get a proper Alfa tie rod end removal tool (borrow one or buy one from IAP -
they are fantastic) and pop one tie rod end out and swing the rod down and out
of the way - this takes only a few seconds with the correct tool and it won't
mess up the tie rod end.  This will not screw up your alignment - I usually
undo drivers side - easier to get at in my cars.

I have also discovered it is much easier to remove transmision with engine if
you leave the flex donut on the driveshaft.  Remove the front section (mark
front and rear) of the driveshaft with the donut - don't forget to use a big
hose clamp to compress donut so it "slips" off the studs.  If you leave the
donut on the transmission it really hangs up in the tunnel and sheet metal can
damage donut.  Put the nuts back on the ends of the three studs on the
transmission yoke to avoid messing up threads if they contact tunnel on the
way out.  IMHO leaving the donut on the trans and trying to line up the
driveshaft and trans when reinstalling engine/trans is very difficult and
dangerous - you should reinstall engine/trans, install flex donut/front
drivshaft assemlby on trans, then connect front driveshaft to rear.

Be careful as the engine comes forward the oil pan will have a tendency to
hang up on the sway bar - keep an eye on this - you can lift the whole car
very easily by pulling up when oil pan is caught on sway bar - this would be a
very dangerous situation if it suddenly let go.

I find it helpful to use a small rolling floor jack under the transmission to
guide the engine forward and to maintain a good removal angle.

 Hmm - maybe a still better technique would be to just unbolt
 the idler from the frame - anyone tried this?

Yes, not for engine removal though - there is not enough give/flex in the tie
rods to clear the bell housing - I did this once to check idler box motion
(unless you turned both wheels outwards as far as they would go - still not
sure you would have enough clearence) - remember the shorter (right) outer
tierod is also connected to the idler.
 
 Oh, and don't forget the ground strap!
 
There are a couple other things that are easy to forget - like clutch slave
hose, fuel line(s), temp. sender wires.

Also:  secondary wire from coil to distributor (pre 82 cars?), main + cable
from battery to starter, wires to alternator, AC, etc.

Ben Higgins
Galveston, Texas
all engines out of parts cars now plus a few more!

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