Here is some help.

[Andrew Garcia <aggarcia@swbell.net>]

AFM-
Doug,
          You are mistaken when you stated that a larger AFM will not
help a stock engine with stock exhaust. I ran the larger AFM with both
the cast manifolds, Shankle and ANSA headers ( both with the CAT and
without a CAT ) on stock and race cam'ed  ( 2.5 and 3.0 ) engine. The
stock AFM is a restriction because it is smaller than the stock throttle
body. The larger AFM  takes away that restriction allowing more air into
the engine. The throttle response is great with the larger AFM.

Upper A-Arms GTV6 -
            Been there and done that. A Sears you can buy a handle style
hacksaw holder that basically has most of the hacksaw blade in the
handle with about 1/4 to 1/2 of the blade sticking out. It will take a
while to cut through the bolt and you may have to cut on both sides of
the bushing, but you will be able to get the A-arm out with any damage.

Inner Tie Rod -
            The inner tie rods of the GTV6 and most modern cars, have a
grooved edge that with the proper tool will allow you to quickly
disassemble your steering rack damage free. Most alignment shops will
have the tool with the various "feet" to fit most racks or the basic kit
can be purchased at PEP BOYS or similar tool supply store. For those in
Houston, Tx  I have the basic kit that can be borrowed.

V6 Clutch Pivot-
           With a long punch or pointed driver,  you can back the
remains out of the  transaxle housing and then screw in the new pivot
pin. remember to locktite the new pivot and lube both the pivot and
release fork. I prefer to use copper anti seize. You should not need to
remove the clutch fix this problem.

        How this help everyone out.

ANDREWG

Houston, Tx